Sew Savvy: A Guide to the Tailor’s Ham and Sleeve Roll

If you’ve heard of the terms tailor’s ham and sausage but have no idea what they are, or how to use them, you are not alone. They are very easily overlooked and undervalued but will change the look and finish of your garments when used in the right ways. I’ll be explaining why the tailor’s ham and sausage are both useful tools to have as part of your sewing kit, and giving my 5 top tips on how to make the best ham and sausage out of your scraps, and how to maintain them so that they last a long time.

What Are They?

A tailor’s ham (also known as a pressing ham) and sausage (also known as a sleeve roll) are sewing tools used to press curved seams during garment construction. Fabric is 2D but our bodies are 3D and when we are constructing our garments, we want them to fit and conform to our bodies as best as possible. The curved edges of the pressing ham and sleeve roll help the fabric to conform to the curvature of our bodies, by allowing curved seams to hold their shape, therefore giving a better fit and finish to your garments.

Do I Need Them?

They aren’t an essential part of a beginner sewing kit and it is possible to start and progress through your sewing journey without using them. However, once the many uses of these sewing aids become clear and you realise how they can elevate the finish of your completed garment, you’ll definitely want to add them to your sewing kit.

A pressing ham is used for shaping and moulding collars, darts, sleeve heads (strips of batting or thick fabric that lift and support the sleeve at the shoulder/sleeve cap), hip curves and bust fullness. They can also be used to prevent turned seams from showing when pressed, and for roll pinning corsets (the process of creating even tension, minimising wrinkles and contouring the multiple layers of fabric used to construct corset panels). 

The wool side of a pressing ham

Sleeve rolls are used to press long or difficult to reach seams that are located in either the sleeves, or narrow and hard to reach areas of your garment. They get to all of the places that a pressing ham cannot because of its large size and width. Sleeve rolls can also be used to press gathers, leaving them looking full and bouncy.

The wool side of a sleeve roll

How Are They Used?

1) Choose the appropriate side of your pressing ham/sleeve roll to use (wool side or cotton side) according to your fabric. If your pressing ham/sleeve roll is cotton on both sides, it won’t matter which side you use.

2) Place your pressing ham/sleeve roll onto the ironing board.

3) Put your curved seam over the top. Make sure the seam is in the position in which you want it to be set. It must follow the shape of the ham, so that it gives an accurate press and creates a wrinkle-free finish.

4) To prevent the fabric from moving around or slipping, hold the pressing ham/sleeve roll and the fabric steady and taut, on the side that is away from the hot iron.

5) Press your seam.

Where Can I Find Them?

They are available in any fabric store or haberdashery, both online or in-store, but I encourage you to make your own. Not only are they very simple to make, they are also great scrap busters! Here are my 5 top tips for making your pressing ham and sleeve roll, and maintaining them so that they last a long time.

1. Filling

Traditionally, pressing hams and sleeve rolls are stuffed using sawdust, for longevity. They remain firmer for longer because the sawdust does not compress with prolonged use in the same manner as other fillings, such as fabric scraps or wool batting. That is not to say that you cannot use wool batting or fabric scraps to fill your pressing ham or sleeve roll. It simply means that you will have to fill them much tighter. Also, be mindful that at some point you will need to use additional filling to pad them out again, sooner than you would when using sawdust.

I used sawdust to fill my pressing ham and sleeve roll. Make sure you tightly fill them, until they can hold no more filling.

Using fabric scraps is an economical filling because you will naturally accumulate them in most of your sewing projects. If the thought of throwing away fabric fills you with horror, no matter how small a piece it may be, then this is the project for you! Filling pressing hams and sleeve rolls will use up a lot of your fabric scraps, so you will easily put them to good use. Be sure to only use natural fibres when using fabric as the filling. This prevents your fabric filling from melting when pressing seams at a high temperature.

Just some of the scraps accumulated during a sewing project, which could be used to fill a pressing ham or sleeve roll. All 100% cotton

2. Fabric

You will find that most pressing hams and sleeve rolls have a side that is 100% wool, and another that is 100% cotton. The wool side is used to press seams on wool. I also use it for delicate fabrics that require lower temperatures. The cotton side is used for fabrics that can be pressed at high temperatures. You can use 100% cotton on both sides if you wish. Whatever you decide, make sure the cotton or wool used has a tight weave, because the pressing ham and sleeve roll will need to be tightly and firmly filled.

3. Lining

The lining will add an extra layer that contains and protects your filling, and helps your sewing tools to last even longer. Lining the pressing ham/sleeve roll isn’t a requirement but if you choose to do so, use 100% cotton.

4. Thread

The seams of the pressing ham and sleeve roll will have to withstand a lot of strain through regular use, and because they need to be tightly filled. Use a strong thread to sew your fabric together. I used thread that was suitable and strong enough for the sewing of jeans because I had some to hand. You can also use your usual sew-all thread, but sew a second line of stitching around the circumference of the pressing ham/sleeve roll, approximately 3-5mm away from your original stitching (very close), to reinforce and strengthen the seam. 

My choice of thread

5. Cleaning and Maintenance

Gently rub your hand over the surface of your pressing ham or sleeve roll to remove dust and loose threads. You can also use a lint roller. You do not need to put the pressing ham or sleeve roll in the wash. It’s best to surface clean them with a damp cloth every so often to avoid the build-up of dirt, then leave them to air dry. Do not put large amounts of water on them or leave them in a damp environment as this will encourage mold and mildew to grow, therefore making them unsafe to use. Should you notice the signs of mold or mildew on your pressing ham or sleeve roll, they should be replaced immediately.

Summary

There are many tutorials available on how to make a pressing ham and a sleeve roll that you can follow, and free patterns that you can use. Two of the most popular tutorials with simple and  clear instructions are by Tilly and the Buttons, and Twig and Tale (I used T+T’s free pattern to construct my own pressing ham and sleeve roll). It is worth noting that the free patterns available online are to be used solely for personal use. So, if you really enjoyed the process of making your own sewing aids and wanted to start selling them, you’ll need to create your own template. I really hope that you have found this information useful. I’ll be back soon with more tips on how to sew savvy. 

Sewing Machines Under £100

Here, you will find a list of sewing machines currently on the market, for under £100 (correct as of 30/10/2020). They are inexpensive, very basic, and great if you want to give sewing a go for the first time. If you then decide that sewing isn’t for you, starting up won’t have broken the bank.

There is always an argument that going too simple can be detrimental to the sewing journey of the beginner sewist. These machines will not necessarily have some of the time-saving functions that sewists love (e.g. automatic needle threader, automatic thread cutter, automatic bobbin winding). This can deter some sewists and create a barrier to sewing, stopping them from starting projects. I think having a very simple machine is a great way of helping new sewists to learn the basics of sewing for themselves. It’s all part of the joy of sewing and will leave you even more in love with this pastime. It also means that you’ll have a machine that you aren’t afraid you’ll break, or afraid to make mistakes on.

DISCLAIMER: Clicking on the photos will take you to the website where the particular sewing machine can be purchased. There are NO affiliate links. I found these machines by doing a brief Google search. This is a non-exhaustive list. Make sure you do your own research before investing in a sewing machine. I haven’t used any of these machines myself, so I cannot provide a review, nor can I vouch for their quality. There are reviews available online.

Sew Crafty Midi Sewing Machine £29.99

Hobbycraft Mini Sewing Machine £33

Sew Amazing Sewing Station Machine £40

Hobbycraft Midi Sewing Machine (available in various colours) £50

Silver 12 Stitch Mini Sewing Machine £59

Sew Amazing Studio Machine £60

Hobbycraft 19S Sewing Machine £75

Brother LS14s Manual Stitch Sewing Machine £80

Brother LK14S Sewing Machine £89

Singer M1605 Sewing Machine – Exclusive to Hobbycraft £100

Singer 1409 Promise Sewing Machine £100

Get Sewing Machine Savvy

You don’t need a sewing machine to sew. Hand sewing is a craft in itself. Knowing the basics of sewing by hand will always stand you in good stead for any sewing project. However, purchasing a sewing machine usually comes at the top of the list for those who are new to sewing. I remember how challenging it was choosing my first ever sewing machine. For that reason, I’ve provided some important points to consider before investing in a sewing machine. They’ll help you to choose the best one for you.

How Much to Spend – Budget

Have a budget in mind when searching for a sewing machine. It’s very easy to get carried away looking at machines with all the bells and whistles, then spending too much money on a machine. Be clear on how much you want to spend before you start looking.

Machine Condition – Brand New Vs. Second-hand

In most cases, your budget will determine this choice. A shiny, new machine is always an exciting purchase but it’s important to stick to your budget. Second-hand machines can be a fantastic, affordable option. Just make sure you do your research. Find out the last time the machine was serviced. Check and make sure that the machine is in good working order before any money is exchanged. If you don’t feel happy, don’t buy the machine (this also applies to buying a brand new machine).

Where to Look – Online Vs. Local

Visiting a local sewing machine dealer or sewing shop is great for three main reasons. Firstly, you get to support your local businesses. Always a win! Secondly, you get to view the machine in person and be hands on. Thirdly, you can get free, in-store tuition on the machine you’ve purchased. If you have any questions or issues with your machine, they can be dealt with quickly, in person.

Viewing a machine online means that you can see a vast range of machines available from each different brand. There are often great deals to be found, making it potentially cheaper to purchase a sewing machine online, in some instances. However, I personally feel that you miss out on physically seeing the machine before you purchase, and asking questions from a knowledgeable source. A happy compromise might be to view a machine locally, then purchase the machine online if you see any great deals.

Personal Requirements – Manual Vs. Computerised

Choosing a manual or a computerused sewing machine will be based on your personal requirements and preferences. Budget will also have a significant part to play in this decision. It might be best to purchase a basic sewing machine that will enable you to get used to the different functions and stitches. Once you feel that you are progressing in your sewing, and you are more aware of exactly what you are looking for in a machine, you can then upgrade.

Some people want to buy the best machine they can afford as their first machine. It can be very motivating when you have a machine with all the bells and whistles, because you want to make sure you make the most of your purchase, by sewing as much as possible. However, do be careful not to purchase a machine that is too complex for your sewing abilities. It might prove to be an unwelcome barrier to your sewing, if you find yourself needing to constantly look at the sewing manual, just to figure out how your machine works! Also, you don’t want a machine that you’re too afraid to use for fear of breaking it.

A sewing machine is an investment, so take your time when deciding on which one to get. Finding the most suitable sewing machine for you may take some time, but it’s worth the careful consideration. Once you’ve found the right one, your sewing journey will go from strength to strength.

This is a non-exhaustive list of factors to consider when buying a sewing machine for the first time. I hope you’ve found this post useful and that it helps you find the right sewing machine to meet your needs.

Overlocker Arrival

The overlocker has arrived. My thoughts: ‘What a complicated looking machine.’ It has come ready threaded, which I am extremely thankful for because threading that machine is the last thing I need. I just want to crack on with my sewing. I’m really eager to get going as I’ve really missed my time away from the sewing machine (is that a normal feeling??). I will give the instruction booklet a quick read and I may even watch parts of the instruction DVD. What are weekends for, if not to get to know your overlocker better?

My overlocker of choice is a Brother 1034D. The online reviews were quite good but I must admit that the deciding factor was the price. I get married in 4 months time and with a wedding to finish paying off for, I am barely justifying my sewing purchases. My motto is ‘A happy wife-to-be makes for a happy life with me.’ If I were to go on looks, which is all that this newbie can really go on, this overlocker appears to be able to do the job. When the time comes to eventually re-thread, the clearly marked, color-coded pathway of arrows should make it a relatively simple task. Here are some photos of the new arrival:

Just like the sewing machine, it was well packaged in order to avoid any damage in transit. I also received an instruction manual, warranty and instruction DVD. Plus, a bag filled with various accessories that I cannot name for lack of adequate knowledge, and I don’t imagine I’ll be using them any time soon:

Instruction manual, warranty and instruction DVD

Goodie bag

Foot pedal

Overall, I am impressed with the product so far. I definitely intend to get my money’s worth. There are sessions running at various venues in my local area that enable you to bring in your overlocker and get advice on how to use it. If I struggle to get to grips with the main functions of the overlocker then at least I have a backup plan, but that shouldn’t be necessary. I’m hoping to learn as I go along. Sigh…being a complete novice can be excruciatingly painful and frustrating – I just want to fast forward past this stage, but I know I’ll get the hang of this eventually. Enough procrastination, it’s time to sew. Fingers crossed, my next post will be another completed project.

Basic Beginner’s Sewing Kit

I’ve started searching for a sewing machine and to be honest, I wouldn’t be sorry if I never clapped eyes on one again. The sewing machine market is a minefield and quite frankly, I need a break from the search. I have decided that I definitely want to take up sewing as a hobby and in order to do this, I will need to get a basic kit. Purchasing the sewing machine is on the to-do-list, but I need a bit more than just the machine.

I had a meeting with the HR department at my work, so I decided to have a stroll into the small town near my work place beforehand. I went into the only sewing shop I could find and asked the lady at the counter for help…I literally looked like a lost child stood in this shop. I explained that I was completely new to sewing, having attended one class a few days earlier. I stated that I was extremely enthusiastic and wanted to buy the bare essentials that would enable me to start sewing (minus the sewing machine). The lady looked at me sympathetically and then proceeded to show me a few essential items that I would need.

Sewing chalk and all manner of equipment were mentioned, but it was agreed that I would not need to purchase such things until I became much more advanced and proficient in sewing (one can dream). I will need a few other items when I purchase a sewing machine (bobbins, sewing machine needles) but I personally don’t think any of those things are necessary until I have chosen a particular machine. I won’t need thread just yet because I’m not starting a project at home, so I do not even know the colours that I will need (the classes I attend provide the material and equipment needed). As you can see by the photo, I only got the bare essentials:

In the photograph you will find the following items that I believe will be sufficient for my particular sewing needs:

• Pin cushion – absolutely essential for making sure I don’t put my pins all over the place, only for one to end up lodged into a body part. I can do without a trip to A&E. Health and safety first!
• Pins – useful for keeping pieces of fabric together before sewing. I’m told that there is a technique called tacking (I believe this is when you sew a few temporary stitches to hold fabric in place before permanently stitching them together) which can also do the job, but it sounds like a lot of effort. I’m sure there is a place for tacking and that I’ll learn this at some point, however, pins it is for now. I chose glass headed pins, so that if I accidentally left one in and decided to iron over it, melting would not be an issue as with the plastic headed pins.
• Tape measure – to help me measure out fabric. I’m not so bold as to believe I’ll be making any items of clothing for quite a while. However, when I do, this will come in handy.
• Seam ripper – to unpick/undo any erroneous stitches, of which there may be many.
• Scissors – to cut fabric and thread.

The brand of my items does not particularly interest me at present, firstly because I wouldn’t know which brand was better than another. Also, because the most important thing is that I start sewing. By spending a small fortune and creating barriers for myself regarding brands and their affordability, I’ll never sew. My lack of ability is barrier enough and so far, it’s not posing a problem for me.

Although, the lady at the sewing shop informed me that ‘Fiskars’ was a very good brand of scissor, even trying to flog their £35.99 pair to me. In my head I thought: ‘Those scissors need to be made with either gold or silver before I even consider spending so much on something I can buy significantly cheaper.’ In reality, I opted for a pair that was closer to the bottom of their range and more reasonably priced. I do understand that having a good pair of scissors will enable me to cut the fabric much better but as a newbie having to buy EVERYTHING, I want to keep my costs down as much as possible. I’m not saying this is all that I will need, but for now it will do and it’s exactly what I want – the bare essentials.

My First Ever Sewing Machine

Initially, the search was tedious, the machines varied and the information confusing. I spent four days researching online; watching YouTube reviews, reading reviews from various sewing bloggers, visiting brand websites and reading the machine descriptions. In the end, I was so confused and almost at the point of discontinuing the search when I remembered this simple fact: if you don’t know…ask! By ‘ask,’ I mean ask a person.

Over the last four days since I had attended my first sewing class, I had met some very knowledgeable people who would have given me a wealth of information regarding choosing a machine. For what I imagine was a combination of convenience’s sake and the natural response of our generation to immediately Google/YouTube information, I had overlooked people with years of industry experience in favour of the internet. Don’t get me wrong, the internet has its place when it comes to researching and I did find out lots of information, but I was suffering from information overload. I needed to find out the relevant information that applied to my specific sewing needs and goals.

It was when I attended my second sewing class that I took the opportunity to ask the tutor’s advice on sewing machines. I was the only person in the class, so I had lots of time to pick her brain. After discussing my budget and my sewing aspirations (probably not the right word to use, as I’ve not set very ambitious goals so far) I was pointed in the direction of a bottom-of-the-range Juki. I was told that despite it being at the lower end of that particular brand’s range, it was certainly not what you would expect from a cheaper machine.

I was informed that this manual sewing machine would allow me to develop my skills whilst providing me with exactly what I needed: an uncomplicated, hard wearing machine that would continue to make sewing appealing for me. I was informed that it had an automatic needle threader, so no struggling to thread the needle. An automatic bobbin winder, again less faffing around, and a built-in LED light to help me see better when sewing. Threading the machine would be simple, with arrows directing me at every step. I was told that it can sew buttonholes and has lots of fancy stitching, which only vaguely makes sense to me at the moment. Essentially it would do what I needed it to do: stitch in a straight line, reverse, start, stop and be as hassle free as possible.

The make-shift handle fashioned out of webbing

I asked to use the machine for the duration of the class, in order to complete the project and I’m really glad that I did. So if my first piece of advice is to do your research, and my second is to ask an actual person who knows about sewing/sewing machines, my third is to try the machine before you buy it. I used the machine for two and a half hours and fell in love with it, because it was just so simple and easy to use. I never struggled to figure out how it worked. I made mistakes with it and rectified the issues easily. I also knew it would be a machine that I wouldn’t be afraid to use for fear of breaking it – something that I think is important as a newbie because I’m bound to do something wrong at some point. I took the machine home, set it up and spent the entire evening practicing my newly learnt skills.

I can’t currently give much of a review, because I’ve had the machine for less than 24 hours. Plus, this is my first machine and I have nothing to compare it to. At my current skill level, I am happy for a machine just to turn on and work when I want it to. As my skills and knowledge of sewing and sewing machines improve, perhaps I can offer some insight into whether or not this was really a good investment. However, judging from the advice I received from the tutor, the online reviews I found and my own limited experience of this machine, so far it has been money well-spent. Time will tell and I will keep you updated. I must say that I was particularly impressed with how well packaged the machine was. Especially because I hadn’t planned on buying a sewing machine that afternoon so was ill-prepared to transport it home: imagine one newly made project, 2 bags of sewing supplies to start two projects at home (a cushion and two aprons as made in my classes), plus my handbag and a bus ride home.

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I did pick up some more items to add to my basic essentials, which were now necessary to purchase, due to the arrival of the sewing machine. They were some bobbins (the machine came with 3 but I didn’t realise until I opened the box at home), sewing machine needles (I’ve been advised to change the needle after every project, to ensure the quality of work is maintained and not lessened by a blunt needle) and some thread to match the fabric for my projects. Combined with my earlier purchases, I am now all set to sew. I can’t wait to really start using this machine. I’m excited to look back at my initial posts in 6 months time and hopefully see how much I’ve progressed. I’m officially ready to start sewing at home. It’s the start of a new relationship for me and my Little Juki. Will it be a match made in sewing heaven? I do hope sew!