Pattern Review – SEWING 4 SELF CARE

The ‘Teloujay’ Bag Challenge

The ‘Teloujay’ bag 48 hour challenge.

On Wednesday, I set myself the challenge of making not one, but TWO ‘Teloujay’ bags by Jo Kay (@countrycowdesigns) in 48 hours! This requires a back story: It’s my mum’s birthday tomorrow (5th June). I’ve been been wanting to make her this bag for a while but the fear of bag making, coupled with being unwell this week, made me do some serious procrastinating.

I really had to give myself a talking to, telling myself that fabric and notions would not defeat me! Then, as a middle finger to my doubting inner voice, I decided to make 2 (plus, I knew I’d want one for myself). Forget the fact I only had 48 hours to complete them after motivating myself to get started.

With less than 24 to go, the above photos are what I had got to show for my time. I’m no bagineer so this make was very slow. Thank goodness the pattern is so informative, and had lots of photos, and a video tutorial to keep me on track.

I really pushed the boat out for this make: D rings, magnetic clasps, sliders, swivel lobster claps, zips and rivets! Never before had I taken a hammer to a project (for riveting purposes) and it felt so exhilarating! I think it’s a stroke of genius being instructed to make the straps first. A lot of care and attention is required to make them and they are integral to the handbag. Had these been left until the last section, I’d have lost all focus and rushed them.

I’m relieved to report that both bags were completed in time. 🎉 For those of you who followed the journey via my Instagram stories, you’ll remember that it was down to the wire and a very late night/early morning.

My mum adored her bag and I’m really happy with mine. Hats off to all the bagineers out there. Bag making isn’t easy. ALL THAT BULK!! I thought quilters had a lot to deal with but this was just next level.

I’m rocking my mum’s bag in these photos because I only had the time to get photos with one, which happened to be the bag I needed to remember to leave the house with. 😂 I’ll be taking mine everywhere!

If you’re thinking of making this bag, go for it! Yes, it’s a challenge and the process is time consuming however, this pattern takes you through each step with detailed, written instructions, includes a video tutorial, and lots of very useful photographs.

No more sewing for me until tomorrow (7th June). I’m having a well-earned 48 hour break. 🙌🏾 Then, a little FPP project to cleanse the sewing palette.

Pattern: ‘Teloujay’ by Country Cow Designs.

Fabric: Cork and canvas from The Deep Stash.

‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten

A pattern review of the ‘Unfolding Jacket’, by Wiksten, used to make a quilted jacket.

Back in March, I did my first ever pattern test and the outcome was an 80″ x 80″ quilt top. The pattern is called ‘The B.S. Quilt’ by Trevor Whittow (@thatgayquilter). ‘B.S.’ is short for Bento Stars but I’ve affectionately called mine ‘The Beautiful Santorini Quilt’.

Since I completed it, I’ve been wracking my brain trying to think about how to quilt this giant. I considered hand quilting it, then I thought I would outsource it to a Longarm quilting service. They use a large, standalone machine called a Longarm that moves around the quilt, making it easier to quilt larger quilting projects. Compared to using a domestic sewing machine, where you move the quilt around and your sewing machine stays static.

The latter was very much on the cards, until I remembered that one of my reasons for completing the ‘Nova Coat’ by Papercut Patterns was so that I could practise coat-making before using one of my treasured quilts to make one. Instantly, the quilting situation was solved. A quilted jacket was on the cards!

I chose the ‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten (formerly known as ‘The Haori Jacket’) and spent an evening putting together and cutting out the PDF pattern after the children had gone to bed. As silly as it may sound when I had an 80″ x 80″ quilt to use, I kept thinking to myself, “I hope there’s enough of it for this pattern!” 😂 I was very careful with the pattern placement when cutting, just to make sure that I could pattern match efficiently and effectively.

Something that is worth mentioning, make sure that you wash your chosen quilt/quilt top before cutting out the pattern pieces. If you choose to assemble the coat without pre-washing, you will experience shrinkage when you decide to give it a wash. This will affect the fit of your jacket. If, like me, you completely forget then there are a few things you can do:

1) After you have quilted each of the relevant pattern pieces but BEFORE you sew them all together, steam press each individual piece. This will cause a small amount of shrinkage in a more controlled manner. Minimal shrinkage should occur because the fabric will be quilted.

2) Hand wash your quilted jacket, or put it on a short cycle, cool wash, to avoid any further shrinkage of the finished garment. A cool wash, because the heat can cause more shrinkage. A short cycle or hand wash means that the jacket will be in water for a shorter period of time, compared to a standard washing machine cycle, therefore aiding in the minimising of shrinkage.

3) Air dry your quilted jacket, rather than tumble dry.

These tips won’t necessarily completely stop shrinkage but they’ll certainly minimise it. All the fabric I used was 100% quilting cotton, which is quite robust, so I’m hoping that this will work in my favour. It took me one evening to quilt the main fabric of the jacket. I pin basted (the technique of using pins to attach batting and backing fabric to the quilt top) batting to the quilt top and created a wavy-lined design. I didn’t add any backing fabric, because I wanted the jacket to be lined in the usual fashion that is associated with a lined jacket.

If you’ve never quilted before but you really want to make your own quilted jacket, you can either straight-line quilt (using straight lines to create a pattern/design) each of the pieces for the jacket, or make use of your machine’s decorative stitches, using them to create a simple quilt pattern on your jacket.

Sewing the jacket, the lining, and attaching them to each other was very straightforward. I’d never used any Wiksten patterns before and found this particular one was with clear photography, and very detailed, well written instructions. Unfortunately, this pattern has been discontinued but if you’re lucky enough to have it in your collection, make use of it. It was a joy to make the jacket and it came together relatively quickly.

Here are some photos of me rocking my new, favourite jacket in sweltering heat. It’s a shame I have to wait until the winter to wear it.

I’m so impressed and blown away with the finished jacket and how it looks. It was worth the risk I took of cutting up my quilt top. I much prefer the design as a jacket and I’ll get far more use out of it in the winter months, than if it were a quilt. I’ll also be using the Wiksten ‘Unfolding Jacket’ a few more times to make jackets in a variety of fabrics. This garment-making project was a resounding success and I got to incorporate my love of quilting. What a win!

Pattern: ‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten

Fabric: Quilt top – Moda Bella Solids – ‘Sunshine’ and ‘Off White’. Kona Cotton Solids – ‘Lagoon’. Lining – Kona Cotton – ‘Natural’.

Assembly: 1 evening cutting. 1 evening quilting. 1 day sewing.

The Nova Coat

Pattern review for the ‘Nova Coat’ by Papercut Patterns

Since dusting off my garment sewing skills in February to make The Bettine 2.0, I’ve had it in my mind to finally sew a coat that I’d been wanting to make since November 2020. I found the Nova (formerly Sapporo) Coat by Papercut Patterns and instantly knew it’d be a perfect addition to my coat collection. Only this time, I’d be making one, instead of buying one ready to wear.

I really procrastinated over starting this make. Mainly because of fear, which I’ve since decided is very silly because I can’t hope to progress in my sewing skills if I’m fearful of trying new things. Any way, I gave myself a talking to and put aside an evening to cut out the fabric. There was so much to cut, what with there being the lining pieces and the main coat. Dealing with large pieces of fabric because of the length of the coat, was another challenge, but I organised myself really well and labelled the different pieces.

The pattern itself is well written but I found that the online, written tutorial was more useful. It was written in a much clearer manner. An example of this is when I went to attach the lining to the main coat. I read and re-read the instructions provided in the pattern and couldn’t really get my head around what was required. It was actually this confusion that prompted me to search for an online tutorial and found one on Paper Cut’s website. Also, photographs were used in the online, written tutorial, making it much easier to understand the instructions. The paper version of the pattern used simple illustrations, which didn’t always make things clear to me.I must add that I purchased the paper version of the pattern. The instructions for the PDF version may match the online, written tutorial.

There were times where I felt as though I would never see the end of coat and lining fabric, but I relished the challenge. Very different from my usual quilting. I really enjoyed making this coat and thought it was a relatively straightforward make. My tailor’s clapper was invaluable. Getting those seams flat and crisp was crucial in enabling key seams to line up perfectly (e.g. under the arms).

I’m absolutely thrilled with the finish of the coat. It looks more professional and precise than coats I’ve purchased in the past for copious amounts of money! I used 100% wool and find that this coat keeps me nice and snug when out and about with my little ones. I wear this EVERYWHERE! The fact that there are no buttons, toggles or zips to close the coat is of little concern to me. I breastfeed my 10 month old and it’s one less hassle to think about undoing the coat when he’s ready to feed.

The amount of ease in this coat is wonderful. The size that I cut out incorporates two sets of measurements, according to the sizing chart (I used a size 6). I thought that this was a novel idea. I’m usually in-between two sizes, based on my measurements, and for this pattern, I didn’t need to make any adjustments.

What do you think? I think it’s a resounding success and would encourage anyone contemplating making a stylish coat to give this pattern a try. If, like me, you’ve never made a coat before, this pattern will gently introduce you to the world of coat-making. I would advise referring to the online, written tutorial when making it, for added clarity. Make sure to read the instructions very carefully.

Pattern Information

Pattern: The Nova Coat (formerly Sapporo) by ‘Papercut Patterns’.

Fabric: Calico Laine – ‘Winter Wool Fabric (WL126)’. Minerva – ‘Anti-Static Super Soft Lining Fabric (34)’.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Assembly Time: 1 evening cutting. 1 1/2 days sewing ( I completed this over a weekend).

Mama’s Got a Brand New Bag

A review of the ‘Satchel Complete Bag Kit’ by Oh So Sweet Shop.

With all of this comfort zone annihilation I’ve been doing of late, I decided to push myself even further and make a bag. It’s a long overdue project because I purchased the Oh So Sweet Shop ‘Satchel Complete Bag Kit’, in 2019! 🙈 There were four patterns to choose from: flamingos, bees, toucans and kittens. Bees won out on this occasion, although it was a tightly won race against the flamingos.

A bag is not something I’ve ever thought of making. I just really liked the look of it, the fabric caught my eye and I knew everything I’d need to construct it would be in the kit, including all of the hardware. With all of the notions and different materials required for bag making, I really appreciated the fact that I wouldn’t need to source everything myself.

The fabric and stabiliser provided are not ready cut. The pattern is included, so you use the measurements provided within it to carefully cut out your pieces, ready to sew.

You are given enough materials for what you need, with a small amount left over, in case of any minor cutting errors. Be mindful to pay extra attention to the instructions regarding where to cut your fabric for the specific pieces. I began cutting with gusto, then realised I hadn’t left a large enough piece for the lining of the bag flap. It wasn’t an issue, I simply joined the remaining fabric pieces together and cut the flap out from the newly joined piece. This is why there is a visible seam in the lining of the bag flap but I’m ok with that. It doesn’t take away from the bag overall and I’m keeping it for myself, so there’s less pressure for the bag to look perfect.

I can’t bee-lieve how cute this pocket looks

All of the components ready to be sewn together

The bag interior is just wonderful. Lots of space!

The pattern instructions are clear, well-written and there are colour photographs and illustrations to help along the way. It is definitely a pattern for sewists who are well versed with the basics. There are quite a few sewing techniques required and there is quite a bit of bulk to sew in some parts of the project, even though great tips are given for how to lessen this. It can make sewing the different components of the satchel tricky if you are not used to manoeuvring your way around bulkier seams.

I really enjoyed the challenge of making this satchel and would recommend this kit to anyone who fancied giving it a go themselves. I’m no bagineer but I’d certainly make another bag in the future. In fact, I’ve been eyeing up a few patterns I like and have been looking into the best places to source good quality bag hardware at a reasonable price. Hopefully, I’ll be able to make more bags for myself in the not too distant future.

Project Information

Patterns, all fabric, stabiliser and hardware: The ‘Satchel Complete Bag Kit’ by Oh So Sweet Shop

Difficulty: Confident beginner.

Assembly Time: 1 evening cutting. 2 evenings sewing.