Me Made – SEWING 4 SELF CARE

Sew Savvy: A Guide to the Tailor’s Ham and Sleeve Roll

A guide to making, using and maintaining a pressing ham and sleeve roll.

If you’ve heard of the terms tailor’s ham and sausage but have no idea what they are, or how to use them, you are not alone. They are very easily overlooked and undervalued but will change the look and finish of your garments when used in the right ways. I’ll be explaining why the tailor’s ham and sausage are both useful tools to have as part of your sewing kit, and giving my 5 top tips on how to make the best ham and sausage out of your scraps, and how to maintain them so that they last a long time.

What Are They?

A tailor’s ham (also known as a pressing ham) and sausage (also known as a sleeve roll) are sewing tools used to press curved seams during garment construction. Fabric is 2D but our bodies are 3D and when we are constructing our garments, we want them to fit and conform to our bodies as best as possible. The curved edges of the pressing ham and sleeve roll help the fabric to conform to the curvature of our bodies, by allowing curved seams to hold their shape, therefore giving a better fit and finish to your garments.

Do I Need Them?

They aren’t an essential part of a beginner sewing kit and it is possible to start and progress through your sewing journey without using them. However, once the many uses of these sewing aids become clear and you realise how they can elevate the finish of your completed garment, you’ll definitely want to add them to your sewing kit.

A pressing ham is used for shaping and moulding collars, darts, sleeve heads (strips of batting or thick fabric that lift and support the sleeve at the shoulder/sleeve cap), hip curves and bust fullness. They can also be used to prevent turned seams from showing when pressed, and for roll pinning corsets (the process of creating even tension, minimising wrinkles and contouring the multiple layers of fabric used to construct corset panels).

Sleeve rolls are used to press long or difficult to reach seams that are located in either the sleeves, or narrow and hard to reach areas of your garment. They get to all of the places that a pressing ham cannot because of its large size and width. Sleeve rolls can also be used to press gathers, leaving them looking full and bouncy.

How Are They Used?

1) Choose the appropriate side of your pressing ham/sleeve roll to use (wool side or cotton side) according to your fabric. If your pressing ham/sleeve roll is cotton on both sides, it won’t matter which side you use.

2) Place your pressing ham/sleeve roll onto the ironing board.

3) Put your curved seam over the top. Make sure the seam is in the position in which you want it to be set. It must follow the shape of the ham, so that it gives an accurate press and creates a wrinkle-free finish.

4) To prevent the fabric from moving around or slipping, hold the pressing ham/sleeve roll and the fabric steady and taut, on the side that is away from the hot iron.

5) Press your seam.

Where Can I Find Them?

They are available in any fabric store or haberdashery, both online or in-store, but I encourage you to make your own. Not only are they very simple to make, they are also great scrap busters! Here are my 5 top tips for making your pressing ham and sleeve roll, and maintaining them so that they last a long time.

1. Filling

Traditionally, pressing hams and sleeve rolls are stuffed using sawdust, for longevity. They remain firmer for longer because the sawdust does not compress with prolonged use in the same manner as other fillings, such as fabric scraps or wool batting. That is not to say that you cannot use wool batting or fabric scraps to fill your pressing ham or sleeve roll. It simply means that you will have to fill them much tighter. Also, be mindful that at some point you will need to use additional filling to pad them out again, sooner than you would when using sawdust.

I used sawdust to fill my pressing ham and sleeve roll. Make sure you tightly fill them, until they can hold no more filling.

Using fabric scraps is an economical filling because you will naturally accumulate them in most of your sewing projects. If the thought of throwing away fabric fills you with horror, no matter how small a piece it may be, then this is the project for you! Filling pressing hams and sleeve rolls will use up a lot of your fabric scraps, so you will easily put them to good use. Be sure to only use natural fibres when using fabric as the filling. This prevents your fabric filling from melting when pressing seams at a high temperature.

Just some of the scraps accumulated during a sewing project, which could be used to fill a pressing ham or sleeve roll. All 100% cotton

2. Fabric

You will find that most pressing hams and sleeve rolls have a side that is 100% wool, and another that is 100% cotton. The wool side is used to press seams on wool. I also use it for delicate fabrics that require lower temperatures. The cotton side is used for fabrics that can be pressed at high temperatures. You can use 100% cotton on both sides if you wish. Whatever you decide, make sure the cotton or wool used has a tight weave, because the pressing ham and sleeve roll will need to be tightly and firmly filled.

3. Lining

The lining will add an extra layer that contains and protects your filling, and helps your sewing tools to last even longer. Lining the pressing ham/sleeve roll isn’t a requirement but if you choose to do so, use 100% cotton.

4. Thread

The seams of the pressing ham and sleeve roll will have to withstand a lot of strain through regular use, and because they need to be tightly filled. Use a strong thread to sew your fabric together. I used thread that was suitable and strong enough for the sewing of jeans because I had some to hand. You can also use your usual sew-all thread, but sew a second line of stitching around the circumference of the pressing ham/sleeve roll, approximately 3-5mm away from your original stitching (very close), to reinforce and strengthen the seam.

5. Cleaning and Maintenance

Gently rub your hand over the surface of your pressing ham or sleeve roll to remove dust and loose threads. You can also use a lint roller. You do not need to put the pressing ham or sleeve roll in the wash. It’s best to surface clean them with a damp cloth every so often to avoid the build-up of dirt, then leave them to air dry. Do not put large amounts of water on them or leave them in a damp environment as this will encourage mold and mildew to grow, therefore making them unsafe to use. Should you notice the signs of mold or mildew on your pressing ham or sleeve roll, they should be replaced immediately.

Summary

There are many tutorials available on how to make a pressing ham and a sleeve roll that you can follow, and free patterns that you can use. Two of the most popular tutorials with simple and clear instructions are by Tilly and the Buttons, and Twig and Tale (I used T+T’s free pattern to construct my own pressing ham and sleeve roll). It is worth noting that the free patterns available online are to be used solely for personal use. So, if you really enjoyed the process of making your own sewing aids and wanted to start selling them, you’ll need to create your own template. I really hope that you have found this information useful. I’ll be back soon with more tips on how to sew savvy.

The ‘Teloujay’ Bag Challenge

The ‘Teloujay’ bag 48 hour challenge.

On Wednesday, I set myself the challenge of making not one, but TWO ‘Teloujay’ bags by Jo Kay (@countrycowdesigns) in 48 hours! This requires a back story: It’s my mum’s birthday tomorrow (5th June). I’ve been been wanting to make her this bag for a while but the fear of bag making, coupled with being unwell this week, made me do some serious procrastinating.

I really had to give myself a talking to, telling myself that fabric and notions would not defeat me! Then, as a middle finger to my doubting inner voice, I decided to make 2 (plus, I knew I’d want one for myself). Forget the fact I only had 48 hours to complete them after motivating myself to get started.

With less than 24 to go, the above photos are what I had got to show for my time. I’m no bagineer so this make was very slow. Thank goodness the pattern is so informative, and had lots of photos, and a video tutorial to keep me on track.

I really pushed the boat out for this make: D rings, magnetic clasps, sliders, swivel lobster claps, zips and rivets! Never before had I taken a hammer to a project (for riveting purposes) and it felt so exhilarating! I think it’s a stroke of genius being instructed to make the straps first. A lot of care and attention is required to make them and they are integral to the handbag. Had these been left until the last section, I’d have lost all focus and rushed them.

I’m relieved to report that both bags were completed in time. 🎉 For those of you who followed the journey via my Instagram stories, you’ll remember that it was down to the wire and a very late night/early morning.

My mum adored her bag and I’m really happy with mine. Hats off to all the bagineers out there. Bag making isn’t easy. ALL THAT BULK!! I thought quilters had a lot to deal with but this was just next level.

I’m rocking my mum’s bag in these photos because I only had the time to get photos with one, which happened to be the bag I needed to remember to leave the house with. 😂 I’ll be taking mine everywhere!

If you’re thinking of making this bag, go for it! Yes, it’s a challenge and the process is time consuming however, this pattern takes you through each step with detailed, written instructions, includes a video tutorial, and lots of very useful photographs.

No more sewing for me until tomorrow (7th June). I’m having a well-earned 48 hour break. 🙌🏾 Then, a little FPP project to cleanse the sewing palette.

Pattern: ‘Teloujay’ by Country Cow Designs.

Fabric: Cork and canvas from The Deep Stash.

‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten

A pattern review of the ‘Unfolding Jacket’, by Wiksten, used to make a quilted jacket.

Back in March, I did my first ever pattern test and the outcome was an 80″ x 80″ quilt top. The pattern is called ‘The B.S. Quilt’ by Trevor Whittow (@thatgayquilter). ‘B.S.’ is short for Bento Stars but I’ve affectionately called mine ‘The Beautiful Santorini Quilt’.

Since I completed it, I’ve been wracking my brain trying to think about how to quilt this giant. I considered hand quilting it, then I thought I would outsource it to a Longarm quilting service. They use a large, standalone machine called a Longarm that moves around the quilt, making it easier to quilt larger quilting projects. Compared to using a domestic sewing machine, where you move the quilt around and your sewing machine stays static.

The latter was very much on the cards, until I remembered that one of my reasons for completing the ‘Nova Coat’ by Papercut Patterns was so that I could practise coat-making before using one of my treasured quilts to make one. Instantly, the quilting situation was solved. A quilted jacket was on the cards!

I chose the ‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten (formerly known as ‘The Haori Jacket’) and spent an evening putting together and cutting out the PDF pattern after the children had gone to bed. As silly as it may sound when I had an 80″ x 80″ quilt to use, I kept thinking to myself, “I hope there’s enough of it for this pattern!” 😂 I was very careful with the pattern placement when cutting, just to make sure that I could pattern match efficiently and effectively.

Something that is worth mentioning, make sure that you wash your chosen quilt/quilt top before cutting out the pattern pieces. If you choose to assemble the coat without pre-washing, you will experience shrinkage when you decide to give it a wash. This will affect the fit of your jacket. If, like me, you completely forget then there are a few things you can do:

1) After you have quilted each of the relevant pattern pieces but BEFORE you sew them all together, steam press each individual piece. This will cause a small amount of shrinkage in a more controlled manner. Minimal shrinkage should occur because the fabric will be quilted.

2) Hand wash your quilted jacket, or put it on a short cycle, cool wash, to avoid any further shrinkage of the finished garment. A cool wash, because the heat can cause more shrinkage. A short cycle or hand wash means that the jacket will be in water for a shorter period of time, compared to a standard washing machine cycle, therefore aiding in the minimising of shrinkage.

3) Air dry your quilted jacket, rather than tumble dry.

These tips won’t necessarily completely stop shrinkage but they’ll certainly minimise it. All the fabric I used was 100% quilting cotton, which is quite robust, so I’m hoping that this will work in my favour. It took me one evening to quilt the main fabric of the jacket. I pin basted (the technique of using pins to attach batting and backing fabric to the quilt top) batting to the quilt top and created a wavy-lined design. I didn’t add any backing fabric, because I wanted the jacket to be lined in the usual fashion that is associated with a lined jacket.

If you’ve never quilted before but you really want to make your own quilted jacket, you can either straight-line quilt (using straight lines to create a pattern/design) each of the pieces for the jacket, or make use of your machine’s decorative stitches, using them to create a simple quilt pattern on your jacket.

Sewing the jacket, the lining, and attaching them to each other was very straightforward. I’d never used any Wiksten patterns before and found this particular one was with clear photography, and very detailed, well written instructions. Unfortunately, this pattern has been discontinued but if you’re lucky enough to have it in your collection, make use of it. It was a joy to make the jacket and it came together relatively quickly.

Here are some photos of me rocking my new, favourite jacket in sweltering heat. It’s a shame I have to wait until the winter to wear it.

I’m so impressed and blown away with the finished jacket and how it looks. It was worth the risk I took of cutting up my quilt top. I much prefer the design as a jacket and I’ll get far more use out of it in the winter months, than if it were a quilt. I’ll also be using the Wiksten ‘Unfolding Jacket’ a few more times to make jackets in a variety of fabrics. This garment-making project was a resounding success and I got to incorporate my love of quilting. What a win!

Pattern: ‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten

Fabric: Quilt top – Moda Bella Solids – ‘Sunshine’ and ‘Off White’. Kona Cotton Solids – ‘Lagoon’. Lining – Kona Cotton – ‘Natural’.

Assembly: 1 evening cutting. 1 evening quilting. 1 day sewing.

The Nova Coat

Pattern review for the ‘Nova Coat’ by Papercut Patterns

Since dusting off my garment sewing skills in February to make The Bettine 2.0, I’ve had it in my mind to finally sew a coat that I’d been wanting to make since November 2020. I found the Nova (formerly Sapporo) Coat by Papercut Patterns and instantly knew it’d be a perfect addition to my coat collection. Only this time, I’d be making one, instead of buying one ready to wear.

I really procrastinated over starting this make. Mainly because of fear, which I’ve since decided is very silly because I can’t hope to progress in my sewing skills if I’m fearful of trying new things. Any way, I gave myself a talking to and put aside an evening to cut out the fabric. There was so much to cut, what with there being the lining pieces and the main coat. Dealing with large pieces of fabric because of the length of the coat, was another challenge, but I organised myself really well and labelled the different pieces.

The pattern itself is well written but I found that the online, written tutorial was more useful. It was written in a much clearer manner. An example of this is when I went to attach the lining to the main coat. I read and re-read the instructions provided in the pattern and couldn’t really get my head around what was required. It was actually this confusion that prompted me to search for an online tutorial and found one on Paper Cut’s website. Also, photographs were used in the online, written tutorial, making it much easier to understand the instructions. The paper version of the pattern used simple illustrations, which didn’t always make things clear to me.I must add that I purchased the paper version of the pattern. The instructions for the PDF version may match the online, written tutorial.

There were times where I felt as though I would never see the end of coat and lining fabric, but I relished the challenge. Very different from my usual quilting. I really enjoyed making this coat and thought it was a relatively straightforward make. My tailor’s clapper was invaluable. Getting those seams flat and crisp was crucial in enabling key seams to line up perfectly (e.g. under the arms).

I’m absolutely thrilled with the finish of the coat. It looks more professional and precise than coats I’ve purchased in the past for copious amounts of money! I used 100% wool and find that this coat keeps me nice and snug when out and about with my little ones. I wear this EVERYWHERE! The fact that there are no buttons, toggles or zips to close the coat is of little concern to me. I breastfeed my 10 month old and it’s one less hassle to think about undoing the coat when he’s ready to feed.

The amount of ease in this coat is wonderful. The size that I cut out incorporates two sets of measurements, according to the sizing chart (I used a size 6). I thought that this was a novel idea. I’m usually in-between two sizes, based on my measurements, and for this pattern, I didn’t need to make any adjustments.

What do you think? I think it’s a resounding success and would encourage anyone contemplating making a stylish coat to give this pattern a try. If, like me, you’ve never made a coat before, this pattern will gently introduce you to the world of coat-making. I would advise referring to the online, written tutorial when making it, for added clarity. Make sure to read the instructions very carefully.

Pattern Information

Pattern: The Nova Coat (formerly Sapporo) by ‘Papercut Patterns’.

Fabric: Calico Laine – ‘Winter Wool Fabric (WL126)’. Minerva – ‘Anti-Static Super Soft Lining Fabric (34)’.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Assembly Time: 1 evening cutting. 1 1/2 days sewing ( I completed this over a weekend).

Quilted Beau

How I started my sewing business, Quilted Beau

As I mentioned in a previous post, in March 2020 I embarked upon my very first business venture. I remain a registered nurse (my NMC PIN is still active at the time of writing, 25/02/2021) but I’m no longer practicing. I’ve been a stay at home mum since September 2020 and wanted to have a career change whilst I had the opportunity. I must say that knowing I can always fall back on my nursing career takes a lot of pressure off me. I’m also very lucky to have a very supportive husband, who works very hard for our family. He really motivates and inspires me to succeed and make a success of my sewing venture.

My business, Quilted Beau, originally started off as a keepsake business making quilts, cushions and keepsake animals from sentimental clothing. I got my first order in June 2020 when I was 7 months pregnant and I considered it to be a large order. I was so thrilled to be actualising a longtime dream.

Some of my keepsake work using sentimental clothing

As COVID-19 started to pick up pace, I made the decision to stop receiving clothes to make keepsake items. I completely re-branded my business and started making keepsakes using African wax print fabric. This is what I currently do, with no intention of moving back into making keepsakes from sentimental clothing. My bestsellers are the animal keepsakes (elephants and giraffes in particular).

Some of my African wax print keepsake animals

The plan is to diversify and add handbags and purses to the range, but not using African wax print fabric. Instead, using statement fabric that makes a really strong, visual impact. I want to be known for making bespoke, unique, statement gifts. That’s the product side of things.

My larger goal is to have an impact on the sewing community and to introduce people who have never sewn before, to our wonderfully diverse, and varied community. To do this, it means sharing my makes, sewing much more for pleasure and giving some helpful advice along the way. I have a Facebook group and Instagram account, both called ‘Sewing 4 Self Care’. The Facebook group is a small community of sewists who encourage and support each other in their self-care and sewing journeys. The Instagram account is my personal sewing account, sharing my makes and encouraging other sewists within the sewing community.

The Facebook group logo, designed with all members in mind.

The Instagram account logo. I do like a tipple while I sew.

I want to be able to serve the sewing community in different ways. The first will be in the form of a podcast. More on this idea in a future post. The second will be in the form of online resources. What these will be on, I cannot say for sure as yet. I’ve got many ideas but I know that the further I embark on this journey, the more I will be shaped and influenced by my experiences, therefore my plans will change. That’s the really exciting thing about learning as I go. I can see my plans (and myself) evolving as different opportunities present themselves.

I’m so eager to bring all of my plans to fruition and to dedicating my time to various projects that are constantly forming in my head. However, I have to remind myself that I have two small children who also need me (they are both under the age of three years) and that there is no rush to do everything at once. I hope that when I read this back in a few years time, I took heed of my own advice and won’t look back in regret, having burnt myself out.

That’s my business in a nutshell. How it currently looks, and the plans I have to expand and make an impact on the wider sewing community. I’ve heard it said that if your dreams don’t scare you, you aren’t dreaming big enough. I definitely don’t have anything to worry about on that front!

The Bettine 2.0

Revisiting and remaking the first garment I ever made.

This sewing project was filled with nostalgia. After taking a deep dive into quilting, giving crafting a go, and trying my hand at making a bag, it was time to put my garment sewing skills to the test. Where better to start than right back at the beginning, using my very first garment pattern: ‘The Bettine’ by Tilly and the Buttons.

As a sewist, I’d rather not pigeon-hole myself into a specific faction of sewing. I adore quilting, with quilts being my favourite items to sew, but I want to develop sewing skills that are versatile and allow me to express my creativity in any way I choose. It’s been years since I flexed my garment sewing muscles, so this project has been a very long time coming!

It was eye-opening to realise just how much my sewing skills have improved since starting my sewing journey in 2017. When I completed my first ‘Bettine’, I struggled with every aspect: the placement and cutting of the pattern on the fabric, the terminology, the actual sewing (sticking to the seam allowance was a nightmare). This time around, the project was completed within two evenings and without a hitch. I was impressed, to say the least, and I’m usually one to downplay my sewing skills.

This project was a welcome confidence boost and has brought me full circle in my sewing journey. It’s inspired me to allocate more time to sewing garments and has highlighted to me that my sewing skills aren’t half bad. Yes, I still have lots to learn (particularly where garments are concerned) but I’m certainly not the rookie I once was. I’m proud of my self-taught skills and will keep working on improving them further.

There are no photos of me wearing this. I’m not ready to show off my postnatal jelly rolls to the world just yet. However, I can assure you that the fit is great and it’ll be frequently worn. I used some lightweight cotton fabric I purchased during my honeymoon to Mauritius, so wearing it gives me so much joy. I made it slightly shorter so that I could wear it as a tunic top, which makes it much more versatile and gives me more opportunities to wear it. Hurrah for my Bettine 2.0!

Project Information

Pattern: ‘The Bettine’ by Tilly and the Buttons.

Difficulty: Beginner.

Fabric: Part of ‘The Deep Stash’. Cotton from a fabric market in Mauritius.

Assembly Time: 1 evening cutting. 1 evening sewing.

Mama’s Got a Brand New Bag

A review of the ‘Satchel Complete Bag Kit’ by Oh So Sweet Shop.

With all of this comfort zone annihilation I’ve been doing of late, I decided to push myself even further and make a bag. It’s a long overdue project because I purchased the Oh So Sweet Shop ‘Satchel Complete Bag Kit’, in 2019! 🙈 There were four patterns to choose from: flamingos, bees, toucans and kittens. Bees won out on this occasion, although it was a tightly won race against the flamingos.

A bag is not something I’ve ever thought of making. I just really liked the look of it, the fabric caught my eye and I knew everything I’d need to construct it would be in the kit, including all of the hardware. With all of the notions and different materials required for bag making, I really appreciated the fact that I wouldn’t need to source everything myself.

The fabric and stabiliser provided are not ready cut. The pattern is included, so you use the measurements provided within it to carefully cut out your pieces, ready to sew.

You are given enough materials for what you need, with a small amount left over, in case of any minor cutting errors. Be mindful to pay extra attention to the instructions regarding where to cut your fabric for the specific pieces. I began cutting with gusto, then realised I hadn’t left a large enough piece for the lining of the bag flap. It wasn’t an issue, I simply joined the remaining fabric pieces together and cut the flap out from the newly joined piece. This is why there is a visible seam in the lining of the bag flap but I’m ok with that. It doesn’t take away from the bag overall and I’m keeping it for myself, so there’s less pressure for the bag to look perfect.

I can’t bee-lieve how cute this pocket looks

All of the components ready to be sewn together

The bag interior is just wonderful. Lots of space!

The pattern instructions are clear, well-written and there are colour photographs and illustrations to help along the way. It is definitely a pattern for sewists who are well versed with the basics. There are quite a few sewing techniques required and there is quite a bit of bulk to sew in some parts of the project, even though great tips are given for how to lessen this. It can make sewing the different components of the satchel tricky if you are not used to manoeuvring your way around bulkier seams.

I really enjoyed the challenge of making this satchel and would recommend this kit to anyone who fancied giving it a go themselves. I’m no bagineer but I’d certainly make another bag in the future. In fact, I’ve been eyeing up a few patterns I like and have been looking into the best places to source good quality bag hardware at a reasonable price. Hopefully, I’ll be able to make more bags for myself in the not too distant future.

Project Information

Patterns, all fabric, stabiliser and hardware: The ‘Satchel Complete Bag Kit’ by Oh So Sweet Shop

Difficulty: Confident beginner.

Assembly Time: 1 evening cutting. 2 evenings sewing.