Sew Savvy: A Guide to the Tailor’s Ham and Sleeve Roll

If you’ve heard of the terms tailor’s ham and sausage but have no idea what they are, or how to use them, you are not alone. They are very easily overlooked and undervalued but will change the look and finish of your garments when used in the right ways. I’ll be explaining why the tailor’s ham and sausage are both useful tools to have as part of your sewing kit, and giving my 5 top tips on how to make the best ham and sausage out of your scraps, and how to maintain them so that they last a long time.

What Are They?

A tailor’s ham (also known as a pressing ham) and sausage (also known as a sleeve roll) are sewing tools used to press curved seams during garment construction. Fabric is 2D but our bodies are 3D and when we are constructing our garments, we want them to fit and conform to our bodies as best as possible. The curved edges of the pressing ham and sleeve roll help the fabric to conform to the curvature of our bodies, by allowing curved seams to hold their shape, therefore giving a better fit and finish to your garments.

Do I Need Them?

They aren’t an essential part of a beginner sewing kit and it is possible to start and progress through your sewing journey without using them. However, once the many uses of these sewing aids become clear and you realise how they can elevate the finish of your completed garment, you’ll definitely want to add them to your sewing kit.

A pressing ham is used for shaping and moulding collars, darts, sleeve heads (strips of batting or thick fabric that lift and support the sleeve at the shoulder/sleeve cap), hip curves and bust fullness. They can also be used to prevent turned seams from showing when pressed, and for roll pinning corsets (the process of creating even tension, minimising wrinkles and contouring the multiple layers of fabric used to construct corset panels). 

The wool side of a pressing ham

Sleeve rolls are used to press long or difficult to reach seams that are located in either the sleeves, or narrow and hard to reach areas of your garment. They get to all of the places that a pressing ham cannot because of its large size and width. Sleeve rolls can also be used to press gathers, leaving them looking full and bouncy.

The wool side of a sleeve roll

How Are They Used?

1) Choose the appropriate side of your pressing ham/sleeve roll to use (wool side or cotton side) according to your fabric. If your pressing ham/sleeve roll is cotton on both sides, it won’t matter which side you use.

2) Place your pressing ham/sleeve roll onto the ironing board.

3) Put your curved seam over the top. Make sure the seam is in the position in which you want it to be set. It must follow the shape of the ham, so that it gives an accurate press and creates a wrinkle-free finish.

4) To prevent the fabric from moving around or slipping, hold the pressing ham/sleeve roll and the fabric steady and taut, on the side that is away from the hot iron.

5) Press your seam.

Where Can I Find Them?

They are available in any fabric store or haberdashery, both online or in-store, but I encourage you to make your own. Not only are they very simple to make, they are also great scrap busters! Here are my 5 top tips for making your pressing ham and sleeve roll, and maintaining them so that they last a long time.

1. Filling

Traditionally, pressing hams and sleeve rolls are stuffed using sawdust, for longevity. They remain firmer for longer because the sawdust does not compress with prolonged use in the same manner as other fillings, such as fabric scraps or wool batting. That is not to say that you cannot use wool batting or fabric scraps to fill your pressing ham or sleeve roll. It simply means that you will have to fill them much tighter. Also, be mindful that at some point you will need to use additional filling to pad them out again, sooner than you would when using sawdust.

I used sawdust to fill my pressing ham and sleeve roll. Make sure you tightly fill them, until they can hold no more filling.

Using fabric scraps is an economical filling because you will naturally accumulate them in most of your sewing projects. If the thought of throwing away fabric fills you with horror, no matter how small a piece it may be, then this is the project for you! Filling pressing hams and sleeve rolls will use up a lot of your fabric scraps, so you will easily put them to good use. Be sure to only use natural fibres when using fabric as the filling. This prevents your fabric filling from melting when pressing seams at a high temperature.

Just some of the scraps accumulated during a sewing project, which could be used to fill a pressing ham or sleeve roll. All 100% cotton

2. Fabric

You will find that most pressing hams and sleeve rolls have a side that is 100% wool, and another that is 100% cotton. The wool side is used to press seams on wool. I also use it for delicate fabrics that require lower temperatures. The cotton side is used for fabrics that can be pressed at high temperatures. You can use 100% cotton on both sides if you wish. Whatever you decide, make sure the cotton or wool used has a tight weave, because the pressing ham and sleeve roll will need to be tightly and firmly filled.

3. Lining

The lining will add an extra layer that contains and protects your filling, and helps your sewing tools to last even longer. Lining the pressing ham/sleeve roll isn’t a requirement but if you choose to do so, use 100% cotton.

4. Thread

The seams of the pressing ham and sleeve roll will have to withstand a lot of strain through regular use, and because they need to be tightly filled. Use a strong thread to sew your fabric together. I used thread that was suitable and strong enough for the sewing of jeans because I had some to hand. You can also use your usual sew-all thread, but sew a second line of stitching around the circumference of the pressing ham/sleeve roll, approximately 3-5mm away from your original stitching (very close), to reinforce and strengthen the seam. 

My choice of thread

5. Cleaning and Maintenance

Gently rub your hand over the surface of your pressing ham or sleeve roll to remove dust and loose threads. You can also use a lint roller. You do not need to put the pressing ham or sleeve roll in the wash. It’s best to surface clean them with a damp cloth every so often to avoid the build-up of dirt, then leave them to air dry. Do not put large amounts of water on them or leave them in a damp environment as this will encourage mold and mildew to grow, therefore making them unsafe to use. Should you notice the signs of mold or mildew on your pressing ham or sleeve roll, they should be replaced immediately.

Summary

There are many tutorials available on how to make a pressing ham and a sleeve roll that you can follow, and free patterns that you can use. Two of the most popular tutorials with simple and  clear instructions are by Tilly and the Buttons, and Twig and Tale (I used T+T’s free pattern to construct my own pressing ham and sleeve roll). It is worth noting that the free patterns available online are to be used solely for personal use. So, if you really enjoyed the process of making your own sewing aids and wanted to start selling them, you’ll need to create your own template. I really hope that you have found this information useful. I’ll be back soon with more tips on how to sew savvy. 

Strive for Progress, Not Perfection

On 2nd March 2017, my sewing journey began. I initially started this blog to document my thoughts as a new sewist and to see progress in the quality of my makes. Very recently, I took the time to re-read my previous posts and marvelled at just how much love and passion I had for all things sewing, at such an early stage in my sewing adventure. I was unwavering in my quest to improve my skills and share my makes. Not only was I extremely ambitious with my sewing goals, but surprisingly pragmatic when faced with sewing challenges. When I look back at my posts and my very first sewing projects, I’m filled with so many emotions (predominantly joy), and I have some great memories. I’m so glad that I was meticulously detailed in those early posts. I really get a sense of the direction in which I wanted to take my sewing.

As is always the case, life intervened and thus began a 3 year hiatus from regular sewing and blogging. On reflection, the time away has simply strengthened my passion for sewing and added another dimension to my sewing journey. Now, I want to introduce as many people to this wonderful craft in order to encourage creativity, promote self-care, and highlight the benefits of sewing on maintaining positive mental health and well-being. I want everyone to feel the therapeutic effects of sewing that I, and many others in the sewing community, enjoy every time we participate in a sewing-related activity.

It is no understatement when I write that I am nothing short of amazed to see the progress that I have made in my sewing journey. I used to write regularly about my wish to open an Etsy shop to sell handmade items. In part, that came to fruition when in March 2020, I launched my website Quilted Beau, opening a sewing-related business. I’ll write more about my business in a future post, but it’s amazing for me to have achieved one of my goals that I set all those years ago. Despite the many changes and challenges I’ve encountered along the way.

My sewing business

The quality of my makes has certainly improved. The amount of time it takes me to complete a project has decreased, which is just as well because I have two children under the age of 3 years to contend with. My fabric stash has grown since my last post in 2017 showing my fabric purchases. I now have a designated sewing room, as opposed to being assigned to the dining room table. This progress has all been gradual but steady. It’s not until I read my posts from 2017 that I could take stock of just how far I’ve come in my sewing journey….and in life.

My sewing room

To those of you reading this post who have recently embarked upon your own sewing journeys, I encourage you to keep persevering through the first weeks and months. There will be many learning curves (steep and at times unforgiving) but I promise you that it will be worth it in the end. Don’t believe me? Go and have a read of my previous posts from the early days of my sewing. They are no holds barred in terms of how I feel, and my makes leave a lot to be desired. Then, have a look at my current work. Things will get better and you will improve with time and practise. I’m certainly not perfect, I still make mistakes and I still have a lot to learn, but the progress is undeniable and I will joyfully celebrate it.

A handbag I recently made

I surprised myself with the quality

It’s now time for me to embark on another stage of my sewing journey. Spreading the word about how amazing sewing is, the fun that can be had creating your very own projects, and how beneficial it is for maintaining positive mental health and well-being. If you’re reading this and you’ve never sewn a day in your life, hopefully I’m about to change that!

Sew Savvy: How to Find Time to Sew

We all have different commitments and responsibilities in our personal lives and although we have every intention to sit down and start sewing, this can be difficult because other things take priority. The tips I’m going to share are what I find useful when I need to have sewing time and let my creativity roam free. I stay at home with two small children, run my own business, and university beckons as part of a career change, so I can completely relate to having limited sewing time. However, it’s really important that we look after our mental health and wellbeing and we find time to sew for pleasure, if at all possible.

My happy place, sat behind my sewing desk

Batch Cutting

Gather together the patterns for your projects, your chosen fabrics, then start cutting. To make this process worthwhile, I batch-cut 2-3 projects at a time, over the space of up to a week. Once the week is over, I have piles of ready-cut fabric, and when I next have time to spare, I can get straight into sewing. The amount of projects you batch-cut and the time you allocate yourself to complete the process is up to you. I understand that it isn’t the most exciting of tasks, but it can be an efficient and effective way to organise your projects. Knowing that your projects are ready and waiting to go may give you extra motivation to get started.

The renamed ‘Nova Coat’ by Papercut Patterns was completed in stages

The cutting process

Pre-cut and ready to sew for the next day

The completed ‘Nova Coat’ by Papercut Patterns

Allocate Sewing Time

This is definitely easier said than done and is often sacrificed for other things, but when you become more intentional about protecting your sewing time, it becomes easier to find it. There are several steps you can take to do this:

1) Allocate your sewing time in advance, so that you can honour it and avoid the temptation to replace it with other things. Put it in your diary/calendar as a visual reminder. You can even go a step further and set yourself a notification for when it’s nearing time for you to sew.

2) Make it a regular occurrence and it will become habitual. How regularly you want to sew is completely up to you. It’s about choosing a time that best suits your schedule. For me, sewing time happens most evenings, once my children have gone to bed. I set aside a few hours to dedicate to my creativity. Of course, there are times when sewing time has to be cancelled, but because I am accustomed to regularly setting the time aside, I reschedule and then commit to keeping that time for myself. 

3) Set aside a realistic amount of time. Decide on the minimum amount of time you will need and hold yourself accountable. When you’re starting out, small increments of time are best. When I first made the decision to allocate my sewing time, I began by putting aside 15 minutes at the end of every evening. I knew I would be too tired to do any longer than that after the children went to sleep. I was less likely to exchange that 15 minutes for something else because it was a short period of time. I would find myself looking forward to having those 15 minutes to myself every evening, doing something that I loved, and I started making it a priority. Eventually, without me realising I started taking 30 minutes, then an hour, etc. Before long, I had found a sewing routine that worked well for me.

4) The act of sewing needn’t be involved. There is so much that goes into the process of sewing, whether that’s creating a mood board, searching for fabric, choosing patterns, and much more. All of these things count, which means that you can enjoy your allocated sewing time wherever you are.

Join Sewing Groups

Whether they are online or in-person, sewing groups are a wonderful way of meeting other sewists who share your passion for sewing. You can use the groups and the sewists in them as a form of accountability. Seeing what everyone is making can inspire and motivate you to get creative and keep sewing. You will also have people on hand to ask questions of, and who can share in the trials and tribulations that are a part of our sewing lives. The act of sharing your sewing journey really does spur you on to take time for yourself and your creativity.

You’ll feel this happy once you develop a sewing routine that suits your schedule

I really hope that you find these tips useful and can implement one or two of them. You’ll be surprised at how quickly you’ll establish a sewing routine that suits your schedule, and allows you the opportunity to be creative and to progress in your sewing journey. I’ll be back soon with more tips on how to sew savvy.

Sew Savvy: 5 Tips on Choosing Your Fabric As a Beginner

When I first started sewing, I thought that fabric stores, both online and in-store, were daunting places. There were so many types of fabric to choose from and I didn’t have a clue where to start. You needn’t feel daunted. Here are some of the things to consider when you are choosing which fabric to use, as a beginner. They will help you to make the best fabric choices for your individual sewing needs.

Project Type

Firstly, consider the project that you are undertaking and the fabric requirements. Do you need it to be durable and hard-wearing? Is it important that it’s lightweight and breathable? Do you have a specific project in mind? For example, if your project is going to be a curtain, you will want to choose fabric that is suitable for curtain-making. If you are making a garment, the pattern will provide you with a list of fabric types to use, for the best possible finish to be achieved. Your fabric choice will be dependent upon the design and the fit of the garment. Most online stores will list the suitability of their fabrics for particular types of sewing, i.e. dressmaking, crafts, quilting, etc. When shopping in-store, there will be people on hand with a wealth of knowledge, who will be more than happy to provide guidance on the best fabric to choose for your project.

Canvas and cork are great fabrics for bag-making as not only do they look aesthetically pleasing, they are also hard-wearing and durable.

‘The Teloujay’ by Country Cow Designs, made by me.

Fabric Type

When you are new to sewing, it will understandably take you more time to complete your projects. The last thing you want to do is add to a project’s complexity or completion time by using fabrics that will be challenging to sew. The properties of the fabric you choose will have an impact on how it behaves while you are sewing. A good place to start is to choose a woven fabric, such as cotton. It comes in a variety of weights, patterns and colours and is easy to handle. It won’t stretch out of shape or move around much while you are cutting out your patterns, pinning, or sewing. Once you grow in confidence and ability, you can start to experiment with the type of fabrics you use. 

Fabric Preference

Do you have a particular type of fabric you feel comfortable sewing with? Maybe, you only like to sew with woven fabric. Perhaps using fabric with a bit more stretch, like jersey, is your preference. Has your confidence in your sewing increased and you like the challenge of taking on trickier fabrics, such as silk or satin. There is a lot to be said for choosing fabric that you feel most comfortable or competent using. While it’s great to challenge ourselves in our sewing, and learn new skills and techniques, sewing should be fun. When you choose fabric that you like to work with, the experience is much more enjoyable, the finish of your projects are better and overall, you are more likely to continue on your sewing journey.

Cotton is my favourite fabric. I mostly use it for quilting but also when making garments

The same cotton (above) used to make a quilt top, that was turned into a quilted ‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten

Budget

Setting yourself a budget for your fabric purchases will help you to prioritise which fabric you need and what can be left for another time. Purchasing fabric doesn’t have to break the bank. It’s very easy to overspend, especially if you have multiple projects to complete. Speaking from personal experience, when I first started sewing I did not regularly set myself a fabric budget and I would get carried away buying fabric that looked aesthetically pleasing. Then, when I was ready to use it, I’d realise that I either had no idea how to sew with it, or that it wasn’t suitable for the projects I wanted to make. I ended up buying more fabric and essentially let the other fabric go to waste by not using it. 

Make sure that not only are you getting your money’s worth out of the fabric you buy, but that you are actually using it. I also found that if I bought anything that was expensive, I’d become fearful of using it, in case I ruined it. The most important thing is not to let fabric become a barrier that prevents you from sewing as often as you would like. If that means choosing the cheaper option because you won’t be worrying about making mistakes, then so be it. It’s much more beneficial to be practising your sewing and learning from your mistakes, than hardly sewing at all and having gorgeous fabric that you’ll never use.

Fabric Sustainability

Sustainability is an important topic and definitely worth taking into consideration when choosing fabric. Upcycling is a sustainable way to be creative and build on your basic sewing skills. We all have items of clothing that we hardly wear, or the fit isn’t quite right. Instead of throwing them away, you could turn them into different garments, or into something else completely, such as a memory quilt, or a cushion. The possibilities are endless! Bedsheets and duvet covers can be used for your sewing projects. If you’d prefer to purchase new bedsheets to use for your sewing projects, they are relatively inexpensive to buy. Old ones can be upcycled and used for toiles, or you can give them a new lease of life by dyeing them and turning them into items of clothing. 

Making use of an old bedsheet

A toile made using fabric from the bedsheet

Using outgrown baby clothes to make a king-size quilt

Summary

I hope that these tips have been useful. They are the things I wish I had taken into consideration as a new sewist, and they now play a significant part in my decision-making process when purchasing fabric. I’ll be back soon with more tips on how to sew savvy.

Sew Savvy: How to Find the Right and Wrong Sides of Fabric

There comes a time when all sewists can be found asking themselves this question, “Which is the right side of this fabric?!” As someone who regularly quilts, I often ask myself this question when using solids (plain coloured fabric). It makes me think back to when I first started on my sewing journey and I didn’t even really understand why there was a ‘right’, or ‘wrong’ side of fabric. I also struggled to tell the difference between the two when using different types of fabric, and it took a lot of trial and error before I felt competent at figuring this out for the majority of fabrics I encountered.

What is the Right and Wrong Side?

If you are new to sewing, you might be wondering what the right side and the wrong side of fabric are, and why they are important. The right side of the fabric is the side that will be visible once you have finished your project. The wrong side of the fabric is the side that (in most cases) no one will see and contains the seams. The reason why you need to find out which is the right side of the fabric, and which is the wrong side of the fabric, is to make sure that your completed project has the best possible finish. Your project should showcase your chosen fabric in all its glory.

Finding the right and wrong sides of solids is difficult but the results can be amazing. My project, ‘Vase and Flowers’ foundation paper pieced pattern by Pride and Joy Quilting. 

Fabric Appearance and Colour Saturation

Looking at the appearance of your fabric on both sides is a really good way to determine which side is the right side, and which is the wrong side of the fabric. I understand how vague that sentence appears to be, so I will get into the specifics. Here is some fabric with a print. You can clearly see that the print is bright, bold and clear on one side (this would be the right side of the fabric). Then, when  it is turned over, the print is significantly faded (this would be the wrong side of the fabric). With fabric where the print is bolder and clearer on one side and faded on the other, it is easy to tell which is the right side of the fabric, and which is the wrong side of the fabric. 

Right side of fabric with a pattern

Wrong side of fabric with a pattern

There are exceptions to every rule. You can get fabric that is printed on both sides equally as bold and as bright. A perfect example is African wax print fabric, also known as Ankara fabric. Here, you can see that the pattern is bold and bright on one side, and just as bold and bright on the other side. There will be a slight difference in the surface texture between the right side and the wrong side of the fabric. The right side of the fabric will have a shinier, slightly waxy look to it. This is not always easy to recognise, especially if you are not used to using such fabric. Another method of finding the right and wrong sides of this type of fabric is to look at the selvedge. The selvedge often contains writing and on the right side of fabric, the writing will be legible. 

Right side of fabric, with legible writing on selvedge

Wrong side of fabric, with mirrored image of the writing on the selvedge

When examining the appearance of plain coloured fabric, you may find that the right side of the fabric has a deeper colour than the wrong side of the fabric, which can look slightly paler. This is not always the case, as in the example below. 

Solid fabric with the right and wrong sides both showing.

Fabric Texture

Using the appearance of your fabric to determine the right or wrong side of fabric isn’t always easy and that is definitely the case when using plain coloured fabric. At times, it is nigh on impossible. It is sometimes possible to feel a slight difference in the texture. It can feel smoother on the right side of the fabric and coarser on the wrong side of the fabric, however this is not always the case.If you’ve tried your best to find the right and wrong side of the fabric but you’re left feeling confused, I would suggest picking a side that you think looks the best. Be sure to stick to that side consistently because it could affect the appearance and finish of your project. 

Fleece

Fleece can be difficult at times to determine which side is the wrong side  and which is the right side of the fabric. Here is some Sherpa fleece. It is easy to tell the difference between the right and wrong sides of the fabric. The right side is fluffy in its appearance. The wrong side looks very textured.

Right side of Sherpa fleece is fluffy and soft

Wrong side of Sherpa fleece is rough and noticeably textured

On this polar fleece it isn’t always easy to tell the difference between the right side of the fabric and the wrong side of the fabric. A trick that can help is to gently pull the fleece at either side. By giving it a slight pull, it will roll over to the wrong side of the fabric, curling away from the right side of the fabric. 

Fleece rolling over towards the wrong side of the fabric.

Knit, Satin and Velvet

When it comes to single knit fabric, such as jersey, the right side of the fabric will have rows that look like the shape of a ‘V’ and the wrong side of the fabric will have what looks like small curves/bumps. This can be difficult to see if you are not used to working with this fabric, or if the stitches are particularly small. In this case, you can use the same technique that was mentioned for fleece. With Jersey, gently pulling it on either side will result in the cut edge curling towards the right side of the fabric. The selvedge will curl towards the wrong side of the fabric. If you have a knit fabric with a pattern that is bright and bold on one side, that is the right side of the fabric. The side where the pattern is faded will be the wrong side of the fabric. 

With satin, you will notice a shiny sheen on the right side of fabric, whereas underneath, the surface will have a duller appearance and that will be the wrong side of the fabric. It is important to know the right and wrong side of velvet because traditionally, you cut from the wrong side of velvet. The right side of velvet feels fuzzy and hair-like. This is the velvet pile. The wrong side of the fabric has a textured feel.

Selvedge Construction

Now, this next bit of information is controversial and can spark heated debates amongst sewists. Some sewists say that if you run your finger along the small, punched holes in the selvedge and it feels smooth, you’ve located the right side of the fabric, and when you turn it over and the punched holes are raised and feel rough, then you’ve located the wrong side of the fabric. There are others who will tell you that it’s the opposite way around. That if you run your finger along the punched holes and it feels smooth, you’ve located the wrong side of the fabric, and when you turn it over and the punched holes feel rough, then you’ve located the right side of the fabric. Personally, I’ve found this technique to be inconsistent. I have purchased fabric and found both theories to be true. Besides, sometimes, selvedges don’t have any holes! For this reason, I no longer use this advice to help me locate the right and wrong sides of fabric.

Punched holes are rough

Punched holes are smooth

Fabric Shop Storage

If you buy your fabric in-store, take a look at how it is displayed. The right side of the fabric is what will be displayed because the fabric store wants to showcase the fabric in its best light. When getting your fabric cut from the bolt, you can ask that it be written on the selvedge which side is either the right side or wrong side of fabric. This way, it will cut out the investigative work, and you will easily be able to determine which side is which when you return home.

Summary

Please don’t worry if you’re struggling to find which is the right or wrong side of the fabric. If you’ve tried some of these techniques, there is no distinguishable difference, and you cannot be certain, just pick a side that you think looks the best. Be consistent and use the same side throughout your project and all will be well. I really hope that you have found this information useful. I’ll be back soon with more tips on how to sew savvy.

The Bettine 2.0

This sewing project was filled with nostalgia. After taking a deep dive into quilting, giving crafting a go, and trying my hand at making a bag, it was time to put my garment sewing skills to the test. Where better to start than right back at the beginning, using my very first garment pattern: ‘The Bettine’ by Tilly and the Buttons.

Set up and ready to go

As a sewist, I’d rather not pigeon-hole myself into a specific faction of sewing. I adore quilting, with quilts being my favourite items to sew, but I want to develop sewing skills that are versatile and allow me to express my creativity in any way I choose. It’s been years since I flexed my garment sewing muscles, so this project has been a very long time coming!

Bodice construction

It was eye-opening to realise just how much my sewing skills have improved since starting my sewing journey in 2017. When I completed my first ‘Bettine’, I struggled with every aspect: the placement and cutting of the pattern on the fabric, the terminology, the actual sewing (sticking to the seam allowance was a nightmare). This time around, the project was completed within two evenings and without a hitch. I was impressed, to say the least, and I’m usually one to downplay my sewing skills.

Completed bodice

This project was a welcome confidence boost and has brought me full circle in my sewing journey. It’s inspired me to allocate more time to sewing garments and has highlighted to me that my sewing skills aren’t half bad. Yes, I still have lots to learn (particularly where garments are concerned) but I’m certainly not the rookie I once was. I’m proud of my self-taught skills and will keep working on improving them further.

Front

Back

There are no photos of me wearing this. I’m not ready to show off my postnatal jelly rolls to the world just yet. However, I can assure you that the fit is great and it’ll be frequently worn. I used some lightweight cotton fabric I purchased during my honeymoon to Mauritius, so wearing it gives me so much joy. I made it slightly shorter so that I could wear it as a tunic top, which makes it much more versatile and gives me more opportunities to wear it. Hurrah for my Bettine 2.0!

Project Information

Pattern: ‘The Bettine’ by Tilly and the Buttons.

Difficulty: Beginner.

Fabric: Part of ‘The Deep Stash’. Cotton from a fabric market in Mauritius.

Assembly Time: 1 evening cutting. 1 evening sewing.

Mama’s Got a Brand New Bag

With all of this comfort zone annihilation I’ve been doing of late, I decided to push myself even further and make a bag. It’s a long overdue project because I purchased the Oh So Sweet Shop ‘Satchel Complete Bag Kit’, in 2019! 🙈 There were four patterns to choose from: flamingos, bees, toucans and kittens. Bees won out on this occasion, although it was a tightly won race against the flamingos.

A bag is not something I’ve ever thought of making. I just really liked the look of it, the fabric caught my eye and I knew everything I’d need to construct it would be in the kit, including all of the hardware. With all of the notions and different materials required for bag making, I really appreciated the fact that I wouldn’t need to source everything myself.

The fabric and stabiliser provided are not ready cut. The pattern is included, so you use the measurements provided within it to carefully cut out your pieces, ready to sew.

You are given enough materials for what you need, with a small amount left over, in case of any minor cutting errors. Be mindful to pay extra attention to the instructions regarding where to cut your fabric for the specific pieces. I began cutting with gusto, then realised I hadn’t left a large enough piece for the lining of the bag flap. It wasn’t an issue, I simply joined the remaining fabric pieces together and cut the flap out from the newly joined piece. This is why there is a visible seam in the lining of the bag flap but I’m ok with that. It doesn’t take away from the bag overall and I’m keeping it for myself, so there’s less pressure for the bag to look perfect.

I can’t bee-lieve how cute this pocket looks

All of the components ready to be sewn together

The bag interior is just wonderful. Lots of space!

The pattern instructions are clear, well-written and there are colour photographs and illustrations to help along the way. It is definitely a pattern for sewists who are well versed with the basics. There are quite a few sewing techniques required and there is quite a bit of bulk to sew in some parts of the project, even though great tips are given for how to lessen this. It can make sewing the different components of the satchel tricky if you are not used to manoeuvring your way around bulkier seams.

The completed satchel (front view)

Back view

I really enjoyed the challenge of making this satchel and would recommend this kit to anyone who fancied giving it a go themselves. I’m no bagineer but I’d certainly make another bag in the future. In fact, I’ve been eyeing up a few patterns I like and have been looking into the best places to source good quality bag hardware at a reasonable price. Hopefully, I’ll be able to make more bags for myself in the not too distant future.

Project Information

Patterns, all fabric, stabiliser and hardware: The ‘Satchel Complete Bag Kit’ by Oh So Sweet Shop

Difficulty: Confident beginner.

Assembly Time: 1 evening cutting. 2 evenings sewing.

Quilting Time

It’s been far too long since I did some quilting. I still have an urge to craft since my previous crafting project. This is why I enlisted the help of my friend (the Cricut Maker) to cut out the squares for my quilt top. Note to self: get a larger fabric cutting mat!

Quilt prepping like a Cricut boss!

Four precise and accurate squares

I’ve been looking for any excuse to give the rotary blade a whirl after all it’s hype and it didn’t disappoint. The rotary blade was precise and accurate, with each and every cut going straight through the fabric on the first attempt. The Cricut Maker worked like a dream and I was in awe.

My blocks all neatly cut out by the Cricut Maker

It played such a small, yet crucial role in my quilting. I wanted to complete a simple quilt within one evening. Sewing is so important to me, and with two children under the ages of 3 years, every minute of sewing matters. I don’t get any time for myself once they are awake, so sewing time needs to be used wisely. The Cricut Maker shaved off some of the time that I would have spent measuring and cutting fabric, meaning I got to do more sewing, and finish my quilt faster than usual. What a result!

Quilt sandwich ready for pin basting

The finished quilt

This experience has really got me thinking about other sewing projects the Cricut Maker could be used for. My only issue is that I don’t know how to turn images or patterns into Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG). This enables you to resize an image without causing any distortion. It’s the file type recognised by the Cricut Maker (and most other die cutting machines) and enables it to cut out images and patterns.

Does anyone else use their Cricut Maker to cut fabric for their sewing projects? Does anyone have any idea of how to convert sewing patterns into SVG files? If so, I’d really love to know. The more this machine can aid in my sewing, and cut down my prep time, the better.

Crafting Over Quilting

Quilting has taken a back seat. Just this once! The Hubs purchased a Cricut bundle, which means the machine came with a ton of vinyl, and other materials and tools, to get me well on the way!

Some of the Cricut crafting materials from the bundle

Since my ‘Cricut Crafter’ post, where I completed my first ever Cricut project, I’ve joined more Facebook groups than I care to count and watched countless YouTube videos from all manner of Cricut crafters. My go-to sources for advice and tutorials are Jennifer Maker and Makers Gonna Learn.

In a large proportion of the Cricut crafting groups recently, members have been posting photos of their mandalas. These designs are intricate, with all of the symbols interconnecting, creating beautiful patterns within a larger image. The process of weeding (removing the excess materials in a design that you do not need) the mandalas appeared to me to be a delicate, yet therapeutic exercise and I wanted in!

Weeding my giraffe mandala

I dislike doing a project just for the sake of it. Whenever I do this, I end up making mistakes because I don’t have the focus or willingness to properly apply myself. I really had to think hard about what I wanted to create. Then I got an idea to jazz up my sewing machine case. I decided on a giraffe mandala and set to work weeding the image.

It was certainly therapeutic and much more complex than I imagined. Vinyl is just so sticky and strong. Great care is required when weeding because it’s not always easy to rectify mistakes. Vinyl is an unforgiving material!

Thankfully, it all went without a hitch. Beginner’s luck, I suspect. My sewing machine case received a revamp and I was thrilled with the results. A tip for attaching vinyl to a surface: clean it with alcohol wipes beforehand. The vinyl will stick and stay put like a dream!

Doesn’t this giraffe mandala look amazing?

From drab to fab: My revamped sewing machine case.

For those of you who fancy seeing the weeding process (sped up, of course), then here’s a short clip, especially for you. You’re welcome.

Music: ‘Carbonize’ by Wolves. (I do not own the rights to this song)

I’m feeling much more confident about my ability to learn how to use the Cricut Maker properly. This project has left me wanting to do more crafting. I’ve now got a few projects I’d really like to successfully complete. Some greeting cards and a Valentine’s Day gift for the Hubs.

I hope the beginner’s luck doesn’t run out!

The Cricut Maker

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME! 🥳 Full credit goes to The Hubs for taking my (not so subtle) hints and getting me the Cricut Maker as my birthday present. 🎉 I deliberated long and hard as to which die cutting machine I would find the most useful and decided on the Cricut.

Not only is there a plethora of information on all things Cricut Maker, in the form of tutorials and support groups, it also cuts fabric using a rotary blade. This means that I can potentially cut out patterns using this beauty! How to do that is a worry for future Corrine! For now, I will celebrate with much singing and dancing (and a little bit of drinking). 💃🏽

The Cricut Maker and a little tipple for the birthday girl

‘How To’ Get Started With Sewing: Clean Your Machine

What is it about cleaning your sewing machine that just makes you think….hmmm, no thanks!? It’s such a vital, yet easily overlooked, and widely avoided aspect of sewing machine maintenance.

There are some sewists who have developed very good habits over the years and regularly clean out their sewing machines. When I quizzed these diligent folk in my sewing group, I was impressed to find out that the majority of them who regularly sew clean out their sewing machine at least once every few days. Only a very small few reported doing so daily.

Unsurprisingly, it was generally reported that sewing machines are rarely being regularly cleaned. With lack of interest in the task, limited time, or deeming it a pointless task for the amount that they sew being cited as reasons. I personally clean out my machine every 3-4 days, even though I sew every day. I admit, I need to increase the frequency of my cleans but being honest, I do find it an arduous task.

The cleaning out of our machines could prove to be cost effective in the long run. “A regularly cleaned machine will lessen the need to service your machine over time,” says Jenny Field, owner of Needle and Shed. “I regularly receive sewing machines where the owners think there is a major issue and it turns out the machines just want a good clean.” So what really is keeping a large proportion of us from regularly cleaning our machines?

If you sew infrequently, the need to clean your machine as regularly isn’t as great, but it is still an important part of maintaining your machine. There is no harm in cleaning your sewing machine after every use, or at the very least, after every project. It’s a great habit to start forming and means that your machine is ready for the next time you use it.

If you’re encountering any weird and wonderful, unexplained issues with your machine, it could be that it needs a good clean. (DISCLAIMER: If you think there is something seriously wrong with your sewing machine, please do not hesitate to get it checked out by someone who knows what they are doing. There could be a plethora of other reasons as to why your machine isn’t sounding right or working correctly. A sewing machine that hasn’t been cleaned in a long time, or never, can present sounds and actions that appear to be a major issue but are resolved with a good clean).

Perhaps some sewists are reluctant to clean their machines because they aren’t sure how to clean them. Our sewing machines can look very complicated, internally. They are such a big investment that the thought of unintentionally breaking them, or messing them up in some way, can be greater than the need to remove a few bits of thread and dust. If you fall into this particular camp, here’s quick a video I put together of me cleaning out the bobbin area of my sewing machine. I use an old makeup brush and tweezers that came with the machine. That’s my preference. Your machine should at least come with a cleaning brush that you can use. Other things that I’ve heard being used to clean machines are pipe cleaners, miniature vacuum cleaners, and mini paint brushes, to name but a few. Once you get into the habit of cleaning your sewing machine, you can get creative as to how you go about doing it.

Cleaning my sewing machine

If your machine doesn’t allow you to get underneath the bobbin area with the push of a button, it’ll require you to unscrew the plate. This can be a bit of an arduous task for some, scary for others. Especially if you’ve never done it before. The benefits of cleaning out all of the dust are far greater than the potential risk of causing any damage. Be gentle and anything that you remove, pay attention to how it slots back in place to make sure you can put it back correctly once you have finished cleaning.

Our sewing machines are a big investment, so it’s important that we maintain and look after them as best as we can. Regularly cleaning your sewing machine is a big part of ensuring it remains in the best condition possible, for as long as possible.

Sewing Machines Under £100

Here, you will find a list of sewing machines currently on the market, for under £100 (correct as of 30/10/2020). They are inexpensive, very basic, and great if you want to give sewing a go for the first time. If you then decide that sewing isn’t for you, starting up won’t have broken the bank.

There is always an argument that going too simple can be detrimental to the sewing journey of the beginner sewist. These machines will not necessarily have some of the time-saving functions that sewists love (e.g. automatic needle threader, automatic thread cutter, automatic bobbin winding). This can deter some sewists and create a barrier to sewing, stopping them from starting projects. I think having a very simple machine is a great way of helping new sewists to learn the basics of sewing for themselves. It’s all part of the joy of sewing and will leave you even more in love with this pastime. It also means that you’ll have a machine that you aren’t afraid you’ll break, or afraid to make mistakes on.

DISCLAIMER: Clicking on the photos will take you to the website where the particular sewing machine can be purchased. There are NO affiliate links. I found these machines by doing a brief Google search. This is a non-exhaustive list. Make sure you do your own research before investing in a sewing machine. I haven’t used any of these machines myself, so I cannot provide a review, nor can I vouch for their quality. There are reviews available online.

Sew Crafty Midi Sewing Machine £29.99

Hobbycraft Mini Sewing Machine £33

Sew Amazing Sewing Station Machine £40

Hobbycraft Midi Sewing Machine (available in various colours) £50

Silver 12 Stitch Mini Sewing Machine £59

Sew Amazing Studio Machine £60

Hobbycraft 19S Sewing Machine £75

Brother LS14s Manual Stitch Sewing Machine £80

Brother LK14S Sewing Machine £89

Singer M1605 Sewing Machine – Exclusive to Hobbycraft £100

Singer 1409 Promise Sewing Machine £100

Get Sewing Machine Savvy

You don’t need a sewing machine to sew. Hand sewing is a craft in itself. Knowing the basics of sewing by hand will always stand you in good stead for any sewing project. However, purchasing a sewing machine usually comes at the top of the list for those who are new to sewing. I remember how challenging it was choosing my first ever sewing machine. For that reason, I’ve provided some important points to consider before investing in a sewing machine. They’ll help you to choose the best one for you.

How Much to Spend – Budget

Have a budget in mind when searching for a sewing machine. It’s very easy to get carried away looking at machines with all the bells and whistles, then spending too much money on a machine. Be clear on how much you want to spend before you start looking.

Machine Condition – Brand New Vs. Second-hand

In most cases, your budget will determine this choice. A shiny, new machine is always an exciting purchase but it’s important to stick to your budget. Second-hand machines can be a fantastic, affordable option. Just make sure you do your research. Find out the last time the machine was serviced. Check and make sure that the machine is in good working order before any money is exchanged. If you don’t feel happy, don’t buy the machine (this also applies to buying a brand new machine).

Where to Look – Online Vs. Local

Visiting a local sewing machine dealer or sewing shop is great for three main reasons. Firstly, you get to support your local businesses. Always a win! Secondly, you get to view the machine in person and be hands on. Thirdly, you can get free, in-store tuition on the machine you’ve purchased. If you have any questions or issues with your machine, they can be dealt with quickly, in person.

Viewing a machine online means that you can see a vast range of machines available from each different brand. There are often great deals to be found, making it potentially cheaper to purchase a sewing machine online, in some instances. However, I personally feel that you miss out on physically seeing the machine before you purchase, and asking questions from a knowledgeable source. A happy compromise might be to view a machine locally, then purchase the machine online if you see any great deals.

Personal Requirements – Manual Vs. Computerised

Choosing a manual or a computerused sewing machine will be based on your personal requirements and preferences. Budget will also have a significant part to play in this decision. It might be best to purchase a basic sewing machine that will enable you to get used to the different functions and stitches. Once you feel that you are progressing in your sewing, and you are more aware of exactly what you are looking for in a machine, you can then upgrade.

Some people want to buy the best machine they can afford as their first machine. It can be very motivating when you have a machine with all the bells and whistles, because you want to make sure you make the most of your purchase, by sewing as much as possible. However, do be careful not to purchase a machine that is too complex for your sewing abilities. It might prove to be an unwelcome barrier to your sewing, if you find yourself needing to constantly look at the sewing manual, just to figure out how your machine works! Also, you don’t want a machine that you’re too afraid to use for fear of breaking it.

A sewing machine is an investment, so take your time when deciding on which one to get. Finding the most suitable sewing machine for you may take some time, but it’s worth the careful consideration. Once you’ve found the right one, your sewing journey will go from strength to strength.

This is a non-exhaustive list of factors to consider when buying a sewing machine for the first time. I hope you’ve found this post useful and that it helps you find the right sewing machine to meet your needs.

Sewing 4 Self Care

There’s a global pandemic. Our lives have been turned upside down. There’s turmoil, uncertainty and we are unable to see our friends and family. It feels almost pointless to make future plans because we don’t know if, or when, they will change. Our mental health is suffering. Don’t get mad…get even! Flip the situation around and start something new.

Why not take up sewing? Make something that will cheer you up. Or, make a gift for someone else to make them smile. Get lost in the process of choosing what you want to make. Will you start with a small project, like a cushion? Are you feeling brave and want a challenge, so you go straight for something you can wear…a coat, perhaps? Or new home decor… curtains anyone??

Whatever you choose, getting started is the key. You’ll never know how much fun you’ll have choosing fabric, until you start looking for just the right one for your project. Warning: IT’S ADDICTIVE!! Creating a fabric stash is a hobby in itself. It comes along with the sewing territory. You won’t even notice how much your fabric collection has grown until you need a new room to house it all!

Winter is fast approaching. Lockdowns are looming and there’s nowhere to go. Whether you’ve got lots of free time on your hands, or you need to escape the family for a few hours, get sewing! It’ll be the best thing you’ve ever done for YOU!

Light Reading: Every Little Helps

So far in my sewing journey, I have learned basic sewing skills and consolidated them by completing projects of varying difficulty. My next step is to start making garments and my first pattern of choice is ‘The Bettine’ from Tilly and the Buttons. I was so excited to receive the pattern two weeks ago. I couldn’t wait to find the right fabric and get started as soon as possible. I opened the pack, took out the instructions and the pattern, then immediately froze.

The pattern looked so confusing that despite the clearly written instructions, I could not make head nor tail of what I was expected to do. I felt a sense of panic and the fact that I am a complete novice really hit home. I have never attended a dressmaking class and I had no interest in learning these skills when I was younger. My mother is a fine dressmaker and has the ability to create wonderful garments without ever using a pattern. This meant that she would be of minimal assistance if I required further support with understanding the pattern I had purchased. In short, I had no idea where to start and I felt a barrier to sewing evolving.

My first ever purchased dress pattern

In order to ensure that my fear and inexperience did not get the better of me, I decided that it was time to read, read, read. I would carry out research and teach myself the skills I required to start making simple garments, using a pattern. To do this, I required books to guide and aid my progress in dressmaking. I set about researching the sewing books available for beginners. There are a plethora of books available for the novice sewist, so there is something that suits every personality and learning style.

After a comprehensive search, I ordered 3 books that covered multiple bases in the gaping chasm that is currently my dressmaking knowledge. They are: ‘Learn to Sew with Lauren: From first stitches to perfect projects’ by Lauren Guthrie (finalist in BBC’s Great British Sewing Bee), ‘Sewing Machine Basics: A step-by-step course for the first-time stitchers’ by Jane Bolsover and ‘Sew U: The Built By Wendy guide to making your own wardrobe’ by Wendy Mullin. These 3 books were exactly what I needed and contained information that I thought would be beneficial to my particular sewing journey.

My sewing library

Each book has their individual strengths and combined, they provide me with comprehensive information on basic dressmaking and sewing skills. I will not be providing a detailed review of all 3 books, simply a general overview, as I believe that the usefulness of a book is determined by the requirements of the reader. I think that overall, for absolute beginners, any of these books could be used in isolation. The first few chapters of all 3 books go over the very basics – basic sewing kit, how to use your sewing machine, types of fabric, their composition and their uses, hand sewing and the stitches that you may need to use (back stitching, basting, etc.).

All 3 books are written in a clear and concise manner, providing adequate detail to ensure that the novice sewist understands how and why different techniques are performed/items are used. ‘Sew U’ concentrates solely on dressmaking projects, which is particularly helpful to me, as this is now my area of interest. The other 2 books have a mixture of garment and home decor projects, e.g. cushion covers. I will now give a brief overview of my thoughts regarding each book.

Sewing Machine Basics

This book really focuses on how to achieve each project by using your sewing machine effectively. It also includes patterns for you to make the garments included in the book. The step by step instructions are comprehensive and supported with pictures, in order to further aid your progress in each project. There are comprehensive measurement charts provided for the garment projects, which I absolutely love. There is a good variety of projects for the complete novice, to the improving beginner. I really like the detail provided in this book, because I like to know as much as possible about whatever a subject may be.

Learn to Sew with Lauren

The layout of this book is extremely well organised with projects categorised into the following sections: ‘Beginners easy peasy,’ ‘Improvers next steps,’ and ‘Improvers more tricky.’ The projects in each category reflect the level of difficulty. There are a variety of projects to choose from and each project builds upon the skills previously learned. A lot of thought has been put into this book, which is aesthetically pleasing (the photographs in this book are wonderful) and extremely informative, without giving information overload. Patterns are included for the garment projects.

Sew U

My favourite chapter

This book is precisely what I need in terms of my dressmaking journey. It provides comprehensive, clear, well-written information and advice on all things dressmaking-related. It even has a section that explains how to express your creative vision if you want a tailor or seamstress to create clothes for you! Patterns are included for you to make the garments illustrated in the book.

My favourite chapter is completely devoted to patterns and it makes sense out of what appears to me to be nonsense. This book immediately puts me at ease when I think about making ‘The Bettine’ dress, because I can use it as a constant companion. In fact, this book makes me extremely excited about starting to make my own clothes and demystifies an aspect of sewing that initially appears to be so daunting and complicated.

General thoughts

I dip in an out of all 3 books, referring to one or the other, depending on the level of detail and explanation I require. There are some projects in these books that I may not attempt, simply because they are of little or no interest to me, e.g. making curtains and making roman blinds. What I like about all 3 books is that they can all be referred back to further down the line in my sewing adventure, when I am no longer a novice. This makes them, in my opinion, a good investment and money well spent.

I definitely recommend having at least one sewing book that you can use as a guide when you first start sewing. It can always be on hand during those moments of panic and they really help to build up your basic, traditional, sewing skills. I bought ‘Learn to Sew with Lauren’ from brand new, but I managed to source the other two second-hand at under £3 for each. Due to this fact, I invested in all 3 books, however one book would have sufficed. I must say that the quality of the second-hand books were brilliant, just like new, but in order to ensure this was the case I did my research prior to purchase.

This is how I spent last week; reading through the chapters of these 3 books, consolidating my theoretical knowledge and understanding of basic sewing techniques. It turns out that it was time well spent, because once I finally returned to the sewing machine, theory met with practical and everything slotted into place. I achieved another ‘EUREKA’ moment and had the best time sewing. Here’s to sewing books: the handy companions that will remain by my side throughout my sewing journey.

You Are Not Alone: Advice From One Newbie to Another

I’m very new to the sewing community and to say that I’m a very keen sewist is an understatement. The most frustrating thing for me at present is this: my skills do not match my creativity. Sound familiar? This can make me feel downhearted, particularly as there are so many wonderful projects I would love to attempt. Even the simplest projects get me flustered and take much longer than I anticipate. I am happy to report that I am making progress and in each project I am challenging myself in a variety of ways, whether it’s learning a new skill, or using a more challenging type of fabric. As I come to the end of my third week of sewing, I want to share some of the most significant things that I have learnt on my sewing journey thus far.

1) There’s a lot of getting it wrong before you get it right:

Make friends with your seam ripper. Seriously!! Be prepared to feel frustrated, mildly annoyed, and even to shed tears and want to give up. Not wanting to finish a project for a few days (or even longer) because you’re struggling with hemming/interfacing and you can’t face unpicking ANOTHER seam is completely normal. Having lots of these moments when you first start out is a given. The quicker that you embrace the fact that making mistakes are inevitable, the better that you will get at rectifying them and independently finding solutions to your problems. This helps to improve your sewing skills.

2) A sewing room is the dream. The dining room table is the reality:

My fiance and I live in a 2 bedroom, mezzanine flat. The small living room where our dining table lives is now bursting at the seams with sewing-related items, as well as everything else we’ve managed to fit into it (musical instruments, coffee table, bookcases, sofas etc). The dining table, which often turns into an office desk, or a place to collect regularly used items that never get put away, has most recently turned into a sewing table. It’s where my sewing machine, overlocker, material and various sewing tools live. Navigating the living room is a challenge at the best of times, but its a space that helps with my creativity. When you first start out sewing there’s not always an ideal space. What matters is that you find any space you can in order to get going with your sewing. It doesn’t have to be perfect, it just needs to work for you.

NB: Try to keep your sewing space as tidy as possible, especially if it’s not very spacious. After every sewing session, I tidy up all of my off-cuttings, scraps, etc and leave the space presentable for the next time. There’s nothing more depressing/off-putting than returning to a project and there’s mess everywhere.

3) You are NOT alone:

It seems as though everyone else in the sewing community is an experienced dressmaker/sewist and you are the only one struggling to improve. This just isn’t true and even the most experienced dressmaker/sewist will have times when they feel as though they just can’t seem to get it right. There is no project that is perfect the first time around – there are always things that you wish you could have executed much better, additions/alterations you want to make in the future, lessons to be learned, unpicking to be done!

I must admit that I have struggled to find established blogs of sewists that have just started out, but there are a few out there and when I read about their experiences I immediately feel a sense of relief and camaraderie. I then start to have much more positive thoughts about my sewing journey, such as: “That happens to them too!” “So it’s normal to feel this way.” “I’m not the only one who thinks a project will take 2 days and it lasts 2 weeks.”

Starting from scratch is never easy, but it’s important to remember that you are not alone with those feelings. That’s exactly why I started blogging. If one person in a similar position reads just one of my posts and feels encouraged to continue their own sewing journey, despite the trials and pitfalls encountered at first, then all of my efforts have been worth it.

4) Things do get better:

After 3 weeks of sewing I am amazed at how much of the terminology I now understand. I know the basics of a sewing machine, having never owned or used a sewing machine previously. I can make 5 different items reasonably well. I know the basics of using an overlocker. I even created a pattern for a tie because I wanted to make one but did not have a pattern to use. Most importantly, I have the desire to continue pushing myself and  improving my skills – next up, making garments. Definitely not what I expected myself to be thinking of sewing after only 3 weeks. All of these mini victories are proof that things do get better and much easier with time. Just keep at it.

5) There’s an entire community out there:

There is an established sewing community that is welcoming, supportive and extremely helpful. Find ‘sewcial’ events that you can get involved in, or join the online community. There is help and advice available from a variety of sources. Make sure that you use them. I am just starting to get more involved in the sewing community. It’s a bit daunting and I really need to give myself a push but I’m willing to step outside of my comfort zone, in order to improve my skills and make some new friends along the way.

I really hope that this post gives encouragement to another newbie. I intend to read it back to myself whenever I feel discouraged or disheartened by my sewing abilities. I hope that one day I can look back at this post and appreciate how far I have progressed. For now, it’s back to re-starting my latest project – zipper pouches. Now THAT experience is a story and a half. I’ll save that for my next post. Until then, happy sewing!

…and Sew it Begins…

I’ve suddenly found myself with more time on my hands than I imagined. Ordinarily, I work full time but that’s all changed indefinitely. Long story short, my job has caused me to burn out and as a result, I’ve been signed off work for 3 weeks. This, incidentally, is the exact amount of weeks I have left to work my notice. I am home at the start of the working week wondering ‘What next?!’ The thoughts going around in my head like a merry-go-round are: ‘Do I even want the same job? Should I change career? You get married in 4 months, you NEED a job NOW, forget a career change! SO…WHAT job? Do I even want the same job??!!’ I think you get the gist. Suffice to say, I need an activity to calm the frenzied, panicked voice in my head that’s stuck on repeat and simply will not shut up. Something that will relax me and enable me to recover from the symptoms of stress that I’ve unwittingly accumulated, like spare change in my purse: insomnia, panic attacks, anxiety, tearfulness…

It’s been on my mind for the past 2 months to take up sewing as a hobby, but with very little spare time, this has been impossible. I have the spare time now, and I certainly would benefit from a pastime that could help to improve my mental health and well-being. A quick Google search looking for beginner sewing classes has led me to a learning venue called Makeplace . They offer a variety of beginner and intermediate classes and at the end of the class, you leave having completed a project. This is exactly what I’m looking for; a two and a half hour session that will give me a taste of sewing. If I don’t like it, I never have to attend another class, I won’t have invested any money into equipment and I at least go home with a new piece of soft furnishing to add to my burgeoning collection. I’ve taken the decision to book into a class for the Saturday. Now to wait….I’m very excited!

The ‘Teloujay’ Bag Challenge

On Wednesday, I set myself the challenge of making not one, but TWO ‘Teloujay’ bags by Jo Kay (@countrycowdesigns) in 48 hours! This requires a back story: It’s my mum’s birthday tomorrow (5th June). I’ve been been wanting to make her this bag for a while but the fear of bag making, coupled with being unwell this week, made me do some serious procrastinating.

I really had to give myself a talking to, telling myself that fabric and notions would not defeat me! Then, as a middle finger to my doubting inner voice, I decided to make 2 (plus, I knew I’d want one for myself). Forget the fact I only had 48 hours to complete them after motivating myself to get started.

Straps completed first

Strap anchors

The makings of the front pockets.

With less than 24 to go, the above photos are what I had got to show for my time. I’m no bagineer so this make was very slow. Thank goodness the pattern is so informative, and had lots of photos, and a video tutorial to keep me on track.

I really pushed the boat out for this make: D rings, magnetic clasps, sliders, swivel lobster claps, zips and rivets! Never before had I taken a hammer to a project (for riveting purposes) and it felt so exhilarating! I think it’s a stroke of genius being instructed to make the straps first. A lot of care and attention is required to make them and they are integral to the handbag. Had these been left until the last section, I’d have lost all focus and rushed them.

Riveting work

Preparing to add zips

Inside pocket constructed

I’m relieved to report that both bags were completed in time. 🎉 For those of you who followed the journey via my Instagram stories, you’ll remember that it was down to the wire and a very late night/early morning.

My mum adored her bag and I’m really happy with mine. Hats off to all the bagineers out there. Bag making isn’t easy. ALL THAT BULK!! I thought quilters had a lot to deal with but this was just next level.

Both completed bags

Inside pocket

One of the finished Teloujay bags

I’m rocking my mum’s bag in these photos because I only had the time to get photos with one, which happened to be the bag I needed to remember to leave the house with. 😂 I’ll be taking mine everywhere!

If you’re thinking of making this bag, go for it! Yes, it’s a challenge and the process is time consuming however, this pattern takes you through each step with detailed, written instructions, includes a video tutorial, and lots of very useful photographs.

No more sewing for me until tomorrow (7th June). I’m having a well-earned 48 hour break. 🙌🏾 Then, a little FPP project to cleanse the sewing palette.

Pattern: ‘Teloujay’ by Country Cow Designs.

Fabric: Cork and canvas from The Deep Stash.

‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten

Back in March, I did my first ever pattern test and the outcome was an 80″ x 80″ quilt top. The pattern is called ‘The B.S. Quilt’ by Trevor Whittow (@thatgayquilter). ‘B.S.’ is short for Bento Stars but I’ve affectionately called mine ‘The Beautiful Santorini Quilt’.

The Beautiful Santorini

Since I completed it, I’ve been wracking my brain trying to think about how to quilt this giant. I considered hand quilting it, then I thought I would outsource it to a Longarm quilting service. They use a large, standalone machine called a Longarm that moves around the quilt, making it easier to quilt larger quilting projects. Compared to using a domestic sewing machine, where you move the quilt around and your sewing machine stays static.

The latter was very much on the cards, until I remembered that one of my reasons for completing the ‘Nova Coat’ by Papercut Patterns was so that I could practise coat-making before using one of my treasured quilts to make one. Instantly, the quilting situation was solved. A quilted jacket was on the cards!

I chose the ‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten (formerly known as ‘The Haori Jacket’) and spent an evening putting together and cutting out the PDF pattern after the children had gone to bed. As silly as it may sound when I had an 80″ x 80″ quilt to use, I kept thinking to myself, “I hope there’s enough of it for this pattern!” 😂 I was very careful with the pattern placement when cutting, just to make sure that I could pattern match efficiently and effectively.

Wavy lined quilt pattern

Careful pattern placement

The quilted pieces are ready to go

Something that is worth mentioning, make sure that you wash your chosen quilt/quilt top before cutting out the pattern pieces. If you choose to assemble the coat without pre-washing, you will experience shrinkage when you decide to give it a wash. This will affect the fit of your jacket. If, like me, you completely forget then there are a few things you can do:

1) After you have quilted each of the relevant pattern pieces but BEFORE you sew them all together, steam press each individual piece. This will cause a small amount of shrinkage in a more controlled manner. Minimal shrinkage should occur because the fabric will be quilted.

2) Hand wash your quilted jacket, or put it on a short cycle, cool wash, to avoid any further shrinkage of the finished garment. A cool wash, because the heat can cause more shrinkage. A short cycle or hand wash means that the jacket will be in water for a shorter period of time, compared to a standard washing machine cycle, therefore aiding in the minimising of shrinkage.

3) Air dry your quilted jacket, rather than tumble dry.

These tips won’t necessarily completely stop shrinkage but they’ll certainly minimise it. All the fabric I used was 100% quilting cotton, which is quite robust, so I’m hoping that this will work in my favour. It took me one evening to quilt the main fabric of the jacket. I pin basted (the technique of using pins to attach batting and backing fabric to the quilt top) batting to the quilt top and created a wavy-lined design. I didn’t add any backing fabric, because I wanted the jacket to be lined in the usual fashion that is associated with a lined jacket.

If you’ve never quilted before but you really want to make your own quilted jacket, you can either straight-line quilt (using straight lines to create a pattern/design) each of the pieces for the jacket, or make use of your machine’s decorative stitches, using them to create a simple quilt pattern on your jacket.

Sewing the jacket, the lining, and attaching them to each other was very straightforward. I’d never used any Wiksten patterns before and found this particular one was with clear photography, and very detailed, well written instructions. Unfortunately, this pattern has been discontinued but if you’re lucky enough to have it in your collection, make use of it. It was a joy to make the jacket and it came together relatively quickly.

Here are some photos of me rocking my new, favourite jacket in sweltering heat. It’s a shame I have to wait until the winter to wear it.

I’m so impressed and blown away with the finished jacket and how it looks. It was worth the risk I took of cutting up my quilt top. I much prefer the design as a jacket and I’ll get far more use out of it in the winter months, than if it were a quilt. I’ll also be using the Wiksten ‘Unfolding Jacket’ a few more times to make jackets in a variety of fabrics. This garment-making project was a resounding success and I got to incorporate my love of quilting. What a win!

Pattern: ‘Unfolding Jacket’ by Wiksten

Fabric: Quilt top – Moda Bella Solids – ‘Sunshine’ and ‘Off White’. Kona Cotton Solids – ‘Lagoon’. Lining – Kona Cotton – ‘Natural’.

Assembly: 1 evening cutting. 1 evening quilting. 1 day sewing.

Pattern Testing: The Quilting Edition

At the start of 2021 I’d promised myself to make a concerted effort to improve my sewing skills. Quilting was one particular area of my sewing where I felt I needed to step out of my comfort zone. I’d started to really play it safe with my quilts, choosing blocks I knew I could easily and quickly make. My quilting was getting a bit boring and I needed to shake things up a bit.

That’s when I decided to get into pattern testing. For me, it’s the perfect way to try new and exciting patterns, improve my quilting skills and learn new techniques. Plus, I get to become more involved in the quilting community. So far, I’ve had really positive experiences with pattern testing and it’s lived up to my expectations.

The B.S. Quilt

My first pattern test was for Trevor Whittow (@thatgayquilter), a new quilt designer. I started his pattern ‘The B.S. Quilt’ in mid-March and finished my 80” x 80” quilt top by the beginning of April. The brief was to play around with the pattern and make it your own. ‘B.S.’ stands for ‘Bento Stars’, which were the standout design within the pattern.

Standard version of ‘The B.S. Quilt’

My twist on the original design

As you can see from the quilt I produced, my pattern doesn’t resemble stars. I completely switched it up and came up with some modern-looking rings. I’ve affectionately named my quilt ‘The Beautiful Santorini’ because of the vibes I’m getting from the colours. I had a great time testing this pattern. Trevor made is so much fun by getting us all together in a group, coming up with a theme, and coining us the ‘Real Housewives of Quilting’.

During this pattern test, I learned much more about block placement, how to manipulate a pattern to showcase my individual style, and log cabin construction. Chain-piecing (the process of continuously sewing together pattern pieces to speed up assembly time and save on thread) featured heavily when making this quilt!

The construction process

Chain piecing for the win!

Lemon Squared

As a result of the first pattern test, I made a lovely quilty buddy, who also happens to be a new quilt designer. I registered my interest to test her upcoming patterns and was contacted shortly after to test the ‘Lemon Squared’ design. Ledine Watson (@sugarstitchesquiltco) specialises in making patterns that are fun and quick to complete.

Unlike larger size quilt patterns, Ledine’s can be completed within an afternoon and provide a deep sense of satisfaction once you’ve finished. This particular pattern is very versatile and can be made as a mini quilt, table runner or wall hanging. I chose to make a wall hanging.

Pride of place behind my sewing table

I was very much a stitch in the ditch kinda gal up until this point, but Ledine encouraged me to take more risks. I get so concerned with potentially ruining a quilt that I’m quick to stick to what I know…but no more! I tried my hand at straight line quilting and was so impressed with the result.

Straight line quilting

Protostar Mini Quilt

I really enjoyed making the wall hanging, plus the feeling of completing a quilting project so quickly. I decided the next quilt that I tested would also be a mini quilt but it also needed to be a pattern that I really connected with. That’s when I came across the pattern testing call for the ‘Protostar Mini Quilt’ by Anna Brown (@waxandwanestudio). I’m more drawn towards modern quilting patterns and loved the design.

This mini quilt is part of a series enabling you to create your very own ‘rune’ that brings you comfort and healing while you sew. This particular quilt is entitled, ‘Boundaries’. Sewing forms a significant part of my self-care (hence the blog name and Instagram handle) so I immediately connected with this pattern. During the process of making this quilt, I contemplated the importance of having boundaries in my life.

My pieced ‘Protostar’ quilt top

The colours I chose reflect my conclusion: creating boundaries can be freeing, and ultimately lead to happiness and joy. Looking at these colours certainly brings me happiness and makes me feel joyous! This pattern was also a joy to make and brought me a lot of happiness. I turned it into a wall hanging to place in my sewing room.

During this pattern test, I got to practise precision piecing (look at all those points!) and play around with incorporating multiple African Wax Print fabrics into my quilt project, without detracting from the quilt pattern.

The ‘Protostar Mini Quilt’ in all it’s glory

Squeaks and the Glass Insulator

‘The B.S. Quilt’, ‘Lemon Squared’ and ‘Protostar Mini Quilt’, patterns are all traditionally pieced (constructed using straight lines shapes, sewn directly together, to create quilt block designs). I wanted to push my quilting skills even further and try out some modern piecing techniques. One that I was new to trying was Foundation Paper piecing (FPP) (sewing pieces of fabric directly onto paper to create a quilt block design).

I had tried out a few FPP projects and jumped at the chance to test a pattern by Jennifer Larimore (@nerdynquilty). Her patterns are of cartoon characters that we all know and love. They are available for free and are solely for personal use, to avoid any copyright infringement. I must admit, it’s been that long since I’ve seen The Fox and the Hound that I hadn’t got any idea about this character. 🙈 I just thought the block looked amazing and so I reached out to test it.

This block was so much fun to put together. It came together exceptionally well and I just can’t stop looking at it! I stayed true to the colour scheme of this pattern because for some, it’s a recognisable character. True to form, I couldn’t resist putting in some African wax print fabric (check out the antennae).

Overall, I’ve had such a fantastic time pattern testing. It’s a great hobby for me that enables me to support designers I like and improve upon my quilting skills. At the end of each pattern test I’ve been thrilled to receive free patterns from these designers, but that’s not why I do it. Along the way, I’ve made some fabulous quilty friends and I feel much more a part of the quilting and sewing community. 💖

The Nova Coat

Since dusting off my garment sewing skills in February to make The Bettine 2.0, I’ve had it in my mind to finally sew a coat that I’d been wanting to make since November 2020. I found the Nova (formerly Sapporo) Coat by Papercut Patterns and instantly knew it’d be a perfect addition to my coat collection. Only this time, I’d be making one, instead of buying one ready to wear.

Pattern, fabric, and lining ready to go

I really procrastinated over starting this make. Mainly because of fear, which I’ve since decided is very silly because I can’t hope to progress in my sewing skills if I’m fearful of trying new things. Any way, I gave myself a talking to and put aside an evening to cut out the fabric. There was so much to cut, what with there being the lining pieces and the main coat. Dealing with large pieces of fabric because of the length of the coat, was another challenge, but I organised myself really well and labelled the different pieces.

Cutting time!

Pieces cut and labelled

The pattern itself is well written but I found that the online, written tutorial was more useful. It was written in a much clearer manner. An example of this is when I went to attach the lining to the main coat. I read and re-read the instructions provided in the pattern and couldn’t really get my head around what was required. It was actually this confusion that prompted me to search for an online tutorial and found one on Paper Cut’s website. Also, photographs were used in the online, written tutorial, making it much easier to understand the instructions. The paper version of the pattern used simple illustrations, which didn’t always make things clear to me.I must add that I purchased the paper version of the pattern. The instructions for the PDF version may match the online, written tutorial.

Surrounded by coat and lining

There were times where I felt as though I would never see the end of coat and lining fabric, but I relished the challenge. Very different from my usual quilting. I really enjoyed making this coat and thought it was a relatively straightforward make. My tailor’s clapper was invaluable. Getting those seams flat and crisp was crucial in enabling key seams to line up perfectly (e.g. under the arms).

I’m absolutely thrilled with the finish of the coat. It looks more professional and precise than coats I’ve purchased in the past for copious amounts of money! I used 100% wool and find that this coat keeps me nice and snug when out and about with my little ones. I wear this EVERYWHERE! The fact that there are no buttons, toggles or zips to close the coat is of little concern to me. I breastfeed my 10 month old and it’s one less hassle to think about undoing the coat when he’s ready to feed.

Front view

I’m pointing at the lining…honest!

Back view

The amount of ease in this coat is wonderful. The size that I cut out incorporates two sets of measurements, according to the sizing chart (I used a size 6). I thought that this was a novel idea. I’m usually in-between two sizes, based on my measurements, and for this pattern, I didn’t need to make any adjustments.

Side on

My best nonchalant look

What do you think? I think it’s a resounding success and would encourage anyone contemplating making a stylish coat to give this pattern a try. If, like me, you’ve never made a coat before, this pattern will gently introduce you to the world of coat-making. I would advise referring to the online, written tutorial when making it, for added clarity. Make sure to read the instructions very carefully.

Pattern Information

Pattern: The Nova Coat (formerly Sapporo) by ‘Papercut Patterns’.

Fabric: Calico Laine – ‘Winter Wool Fabric (WL126)’. Minerva – ‘Anti-Static Super Soft Lining Fabric (34)’.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Assembly Time: 1 evening cutting. 1 1/2 days sewing ( I completed this over a weekend).

Quilted Beau

As I mentioned in a previous post, in March 2020 I embarked upon my very first business venture. I remain a registered nurse (my NMC PIN is still active at the time of writing, 25/02/2021) but I’m no longer practicing. I’ve been a stay at home mum since September 2020 and wanted to have a career change whilst I had the opportunity. I must say that knowing I can always fall back on my nursing career takes a lot of pressure off me. I’m also very lucky to have a very supportive husband, who works very hard for our family. He really motivates and inspires me to succeed and make a success of my sewing venture.

My business, Quilted Beau, originally started off as a keepsake business making quilts, cushions and keepsake animals from sentimental clothing. I got my first order in June 2020 when I was 7 months pregnant and I considered it to be a large order. I was so thrilled to be actualising a longtime dream.

My first orders: 4 cats

Some of my keepsake work using sentimental clothing

As COVID-19 started to pick up pace, I made the decision to stop receiving clothes to make keepsake items. I completely re-branded my business and started making keepsakes using African wax print fabric. This is what I currently do, with no intention of moving back into making keepsakes from sentimental clothing. My bestsellers are the animal keepsakes (elephants and giraffes in particular).

Some of my African wax print keepsake animals

The plan is to diversify and add handbags and purses to the range, but not using African wax print fabric. Instead, using statement fabric that makes a really strong, visual impact. I want to be known for making bespoke, unique, statement gifts. That’s the product side of things.

My larger goal is to have an impact on the sewing community and to introduce people who have never sewn before, to our wonderfully diverse, and varied community. To do this, it means sharing my makes, sewing much more for pleasure and giving some helpful advice along the way. I have a Facebook group and Instagram account, both called ‘Sewing 4 Self Care’. The Facebook group is a small community of sewists who encourage and support each other in their self-care and sewing journeys. The Instagram account is my personal sewing account, sharing my makes and encouraging other sewists within the sewing community.

The Facebook group logo, designed with all members in mind.

The Instagram account logo. I do like a tipple while I sew.

I want to be able to serve the sewing community in different ways. The first will be in the form of a podcast. More on this idea in a future post. The second will be in the form of online resources. What these will be on, I cannot say for sure as yet. I’ve got many ideas but I know that the further I embark on this journey, the more I will be shaped and influenced by my experiences, therefore my plans will change. That’s the really exciting thing about learning as I go. I can see my plans (and myself) evolving as different opportunities present themselves.

I’m so eager to bring all of my plans to fruition and to dedicating my time to various projects that are constantly forming in my head. However, I have to remind myself that I have two small children who also need me (they are both under the age of three years) and that there is no rush to do everything at once. I hope that when I read this back in a few years time, I took heed of my own advice and won’t look back in regret, having burnt myself out.

That’s my business in a nutshell. How it currently looks, and the plans I have to expand and make an impact on the wider sewing community. I’ve heard it said that if your dreams don’t scare you, you aren’t dreaming big enough. I definitely don’t have anything to worry about on that front!